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Riesling
One of the world's great grape varieties and the acknowledged king of German vineyards, also important in Alsace, Riesling goes through a number of ripening phases making it incredibly varied. Picked early it can form a base wine for Methode Champenoise; a little later, it makes a wonderfully crisp, aromatic lemon-lime filled dry white. A little riper the grapes produce an excellent, slightly sweet 'Spatlese' wine, later again an 'Auslese', and so on. In Australia, crisp, minerally, citrus-led styles dominate, with regions like South Australia, Victoria and Western Australia producing the finest examples. Fish, shellfish and crustaceans are perfect partners.
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2023 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$1450. 00Bottle$17400.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkIt is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.
Morstein is the most historic of Keller's holdings, first documented in the 13th century and renowned for its active limestone and clay-marl composition. The vineyard's elevation and exposure give it a reputation for longevity and complexity, making it a cornerstone of Keller's dry Riesling portfolio.
Other Reviews....
From vines planted in 1944, the Westhofen 2023 Morstein Riesling GG opens intense and fine like a perfume, with wet chalk, lemon juice and yellow plum aromas. Full-bodied, pure and refined on the palate, this is a juicy, savory and saline, finely tannic and chalky Riesling with a long, aromatic and stimulating finish. I tasted this potentially great wine as a sample in May 2024. It was to be bottled in July, but it won't be released before May 2025. Drink 2026-2060.
96-98 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine AdvocateThe 2023 Riesling Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewächs is made from 75-year-old vines higher up in the Morstein. Just a touch of reduction still swings on the nose, but underneath, white peach, lemon balm and chervil flirt enticingly. Later on, creamy lemon joins in. Smooth serenity, absolutely cooling depth and an almost zen-like calm define the palate. Lemon at the core is almost incidental to this luminous, cool, profound wine with impeccable purity, poise and freshness. The longer you consider this, the deeper it sinks into that limestone. This is a slender, contoured monument to tranquility. (Bone-dry) Drink 2028-2060.
98 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - VinousIncredibly dense, bright and fresh, this youthful giant leaps out at you. A deep well of yellow peaches, Mirabelle plums and fresh almonds, with a vein of salty minerality weaving its way through the medium- to full-bodied palate. Gigantic length at the breathtakingly energetic, citrusy and chalky finish. Enormous potential. Drink from release.
99 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.comSomeone once described Keller's wines as the Puligny-Montrachet of Germany, and this one exemplifies that association. It’s not the grape variety that takes centre stage here, but the terroir – clay marl with limestone on a rocky subsoil. Everything comes together in perfect harmony: a silky texture, balanced ripeness, and a captivating flow. A hint of iodine mingles with citrus fruit, and the memory of this wine lingers far beyond its finish. Drink 2024-2055.
98 points
Caro Maurer MW - DecanterLimestone soils. Oldest vines are 75 years old, on the highest part of the slope. Tank sample.
An even deeper note than in the Oberer Hubacker. Spicy, rich, open in citrus and smoky/herbal complexity. A little more obvious reduction here. Altogether a darker, deeper wine that the previous wines from limestone soils. Immense concentration and power, essence of Riesling from this site, which give a more savoury complexity and seems incapable of flirting with the taster. But the taste stays with you for ever. Something here reminds me of Schubertslay even though the soils and the topography are so different. A smoky/herbal aftertaste. Drink 2027-2040.
18.5/20 points
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2023 Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$525. 00Bottle$6300.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkIt is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.
Oberer Hubacker lies in the upper section of the Hubacker vineyard in Dalsheim, characterised by clay-limestone soils with higher limestone content than the parcels below. It is known within the Keller range for its structure and depth, and represents one of the estate's earliest holdings under Grosse Lage classification.
Other Reviews....
Picked at 31 hectoliters per hectare, the sample of the Dalsheimer 2023 Oberer Hubacker Riesling GG is deep and pure yet not ascetic on the nose that indicates ripe fruit with yeasty and saline notes. Full-bodied, tight and fresh on the palate, this is a dense yet weightless and finessed, persistently salty and finely juicy but always calcareous Riesling. Tasted in May 2024, this wine is expected to be released in May 2025. Drink 2025-2060.
95-96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine AdvocateThe 2023 Riesling Dalsheimer Oberer Hubacker Monopol Grosses Gewächs opens with prompt Amalfi lemon ripeness on the nose. Harvested from slightly richer soils, this comes in with more weight and concentration on the palate, showing immense lemon brightness and a fine-boned, crunchy texture that tingles with freshness. It’s reminiscent of lemon peel and pith, alongside vivid saltiness and even spice. With a serene bearing, cooling depth and a vibrant, saline edge, it’s all helped along by a subtle textural grip. (Bone-dry) Drink 2028-2060.
96 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - VinousThis compact dry riesling has restrained power, but is still very young and only just beginning to open up. A wide range of aromas, from pomelo through jasmine, that are just opening up. The structure builds quite considerably as this flows over the medium-bodied palate, the fine tannins building beautifully in the very long, warm, yet refined finish. Drink from release.
97 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.comLimestone soils. 2021 was the first vintage in which they were able to label this as Oberer Hubacker, which is the original parcel of Hubacker that has been a monopoly in the Keller family for 100 years. Tank sample.
More green fruits here than in the Kirchspiel, a deeper tone, like going down a tonal scale from von der Fels to Kirchspiel to this wine. Stony/mineral dustiness. On the palate there's great depth and richness, the wine's feet planted more squarely on the ground than those of the Kirchspiel, but it still reaches up to the sky with purity of citrus fruit and intense freshness on the finish. Very long, with extreme tension and freshness. Needs time. As it opens in the glass, it gains more smoky complexity. Drink 2026-2038.
17.5++/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
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2022 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$1199. 00Bottle$14388.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
From 60- to 70-year-old vines, the rare 2022 Riesling Westhofener Morstein GG Alte Reben shows a clear and finely chalky bouquet with delicate but juicy fruit and a touch of exoticism but also citrus notes. Dense, juicy and fine on the palate, with delicate salinity and persistent finesse, this is a great, calm, relaxed Morstein Riesling that is not showy but radiantly confident. Tasted at the domaine July 2023. Drink 2025-2045.
96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)The 2022 Riesling Westhofener Morstein is from 75-year-old vines that were field-grafted over to Riesling in 2009 (halt to Pinot Noir, half to Riesling). The nose is rather muted. Just a glimmer of lemon freshness shines, with a suspicion of reduction. The juicy, chalky palate expands somehow vertically into deep limestone chalkiness and inherent coolness. For now, there is just lemon. Everything else seems locked deep in that limestone freshness and cool profoundness. It will take time to allow the undoubted fruit to loosen itself from the austere stoniness and come to the surface. The extended finish comes with lemon zest and pith. (Bone-dry) Drink 2025-2050.
98 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - VinousExtremely cool nose with great wild herb complexity. Yes, this is very concentrated, but the incredible finesse is what makes it stand out. Become a seeker and travel through this astonishingly varied landscape, admire the details and return home with a treasure chest of memories. Minty freshness of a kind I haven’t encountered before in this vintage. Then the journey continues through the super-long and super-subtle finish. Drink or hold.
98 points
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.comThe concentrated power in this is fascinating. There seems to be a bit of everything: citrus, lemon zest and lemon balm, all dense and highly concentrated. In 2022, the good water retention of the heavy clay marl soils with layers of limestone ensured that the vines are adequately supplied and prevented the bitter notes typical of the vintage. The Morstein vineyard rests in the Riesling like a Buddha: lush and powerful, but also contemplative – a wine for hedonists. Drink 2028-2050.
98 points
Caro Maurer MW - DecanterTank sample. Cold soil that needs a long time to warm up but in these periods of heat and drought it is an advantage.
Deeply flavoured and 'darker'-tasting than the Schubertslay, earthy/mineral, not in the least fruity. Smells of the land. But on the palate, there’s an explosion of freshness, of green citrus, like shards of glass, a sour-fresh finish. Intense and clenched at the moment but with fabulous intensity. Drink 2029-2039.
19/20 points
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2022 Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$520. 00Bottle$6240.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
The 2022 Riesling Dalsheimer Oberer Hubacker GG is very clear and reductive in its dense, aromatic and slightly salty nose, which combines fresh pineapple, delicate citrus fruit and fine herbal aromas. Juicy and intense on the palate yet fine and elegant, with delicate salinity and fine tannin structure as well as good length, this is one of Keller's finest Hubackers of the last 20 years, but it still needs some time to develop. Tasted at the domaine in July this year. Drink 2025-2039.
94+ points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)The 2022 Riesling Dalsheimer Oberer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs was grown on yellow limestone. The nose is exquisitely scented, very fine, marked with chervil and lemon balm, purest lemon, yet also a flicker of peach skin. The palate is slender yet dense, fluid and compact, vivid with notions of red-cheeked apple, and again, just a touch of peach among the lemony, pithy concentration. The mid-palate has some heat, shows the site's power and seems to become riper and riper. It's like a thoroughbred, raring to go, barely containing its power, very streamlined, driven and straining at the leash. (Bone-dry) Drink 2025-2050.
96 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - VinousAll the colors of the peach: yellow, white and red-fleshed! Fabulous succulence is married to a zesty freshness that creates an electric tension. Great concentration on the mid-palate, but the intensity only builds at the very long, energetic and wet stone finish. Doesn’t want to stop! Drink or hold.
97 points
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.comTank sample. Limestone soils. Apparently the stones used to build the Kellers' home come from this vineyard. Klaus Peter Keller's grandfather sat the Sprengmeisterprüfung (a test that allows you to use explosives) so that he could source the rocks for building.
Somehow 'darker' on the nose than the Kirchspiel. More earthy and spiced. Not as flirtatious, with a slight impression of smoky reduction, the herbal fumes of spontaneous fermentation that I did not sense on the Kirchspiel. Powerful, savoury, darker on the palate, too. Really savoury with a strong herbal aftertaste. Power and length but without the charm of Kirchspiel. Darker and more earthy. The same quality level as Kirchspiel but not as much to my personal taste. Drink 2026-2038.
18/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
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2022 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$480. 00Bottle$5760.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Keller's 2022 Riesling Westhofener Kirchspiel GG opens with a clear, elegant, dense and chalky nose with a ripe, intense fruit and notes reminiscent of iodine. Elegant, dense and chalky on the palate, with an intense, tightly woven and salty-savory finish, this is an excellent finessed Kirchspiel and very typical for its terroir. Drink 2026-2040.
94 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)The 2022 Riesling Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewächs was harvested from vines planted in 1964. The nose is a cool, pure breeze of lemon balm and freshly cut, ripe lemon. The body is taut and tender, shimmering with ripe Mirabelle on the fluid, compact mid-palate. A fine phenolic web holds this together as the concentration seems to seep lemon-juice-like into the depth of cool limestone. This is driven and zesty, bone dry. The finish holds a shimmer of lemon and limestone with a frisson of seductive, riper stone fruit, very fine and elegant. (Bone-dry) Drink 2025-2050.
96 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - VinousA super-elegant, high-end, dry riesling with the combination of restrained ripeness and lively and subtle acidity that characterizes the best side of the 2022 vintage. The aromas at the front are very stone fruit-focused, but at the back it turns decisively in a citrusy direction and there the chalky minerality builds and builds. All this is deftly supported by fine tannins. Drink or hold.
95 points
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.comTank sample. Vines aged 60 years.
On the nose, the classic blossom notes as well as the stony minerality that I associate with Kirchspiel’s limestone soils. Lime and peach fruit add both richness and freshness to the mid palate. This has a corset of acidity that holds the fruit in a tight framework but more power than in some years. A little bit of spice. Immense concentration without loss of its unique fragrance and lightness of foot. Really long. Mouth-watering finish. A wonderful pairing of elegant scentedness with persistence and intensity. Drink 2025-2035.
18/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com - 2022 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$64. 99Bottle$779.88 DozenABV: 12%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
The Riesling Trocken is such a perfect foray into Keller wines as it is always treated with the same meticulous care as their top releases. While 85% of Keller holdings are classified as 'Grand Cru', only 15% of their wines are labelled as such meaning a lot of premium fruit goes into the other releases including this fantastic wine. Jancis Robinson MW famously stated “If I had to choose one wine to show how great dry German Riesling can be I would choose a Keller Riesling.”
- 2022 Keller Limestone Riesling KabinettRheinhessen, GERMANY$89. 99Bottle$1079.88 DozenABV: 8.5%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
Other Reviews....
Bottled last week. From vineyards all over Westhofen. A few tiny bubbles of CO2 from the fermentation, which, suggests Felix Keller, ‘Gives another dimension to the wine’. TA 9 g/l, RS 36 g/l.
Bright, intense stony citrus – lemon and lime – but also spring blossom and a hint of green apple. Marked citrus/lime purity with a delicate chalky limestone-induced texture. The stony sensation on the palate makes you think it is drier than it is. Salivating, great tension. Long and pure and stony, almost dry-tasting on the finish. Long, beautifully balanced. Amazing to get a wine like this from a warm, dry year. Drink: 2023-2031.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com - 2022 Keller Von der Fels RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$110. 00Bottle$1320.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels.Other Reviews....
Tank sample. The dry counterpart to Limestone Kabinett, from different parts of the same vineyards.
Exotic citrus nose, spiced like ginger, ‘spice’ in the texture as well as the flavour. Ripe citrus yet balanced by intense freshness. Slightly chewy texture. Firm, dense but lively freshness on the finish, spicy on the finish. Drink: 2023-2030.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com - 2022 Keller RR RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$180. 00Bottle$2160.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
RR refers to Riesling from red soils – a half-hectare parcel within Kirchspiel that gives fruit that is a little more spicy than fruit that goes into Von der Fels. This parcel doesn't always ferment to complete dryness, as was the case in 2022, where it has also been blended with some top parcels from Abtserde and Morstein (usually destined for the GGs) that also didn't ferment totally dry. The resulting blend is just off-dry, with around 12 g/L of residual sugar, making this RR a serious example of feinherb.
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2021 Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$499. 00Bottle$5988.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Pear and apple notes on both the nose and palate are laced with marjoram and sage and are strongly marked by their pits, making for a very forceful, pungent and piquant presentation with a smoky aura. Along with those aforementioned aromas and flavors, a vivid sense of stoniness prevails, which, taken together with an almost implosive impression of density-without-weight, leads one to think of this wine as tightly-coiled and embryonic. The gripping, nearly implacable finish reinforces that impression with its combination of biting intensity and almost severe stoniness. The source, just as in previous vintages, is the family’s old vines in the Hubacker Einzellage. But in 2021, Keller registered the cadastral designation “Oberer Hubacker” that was used on estate labels before being stricken from the official vineyard register in 1971, and which refers to a ten acre family monopole (as is now also indicated on the label). Drink 2026-2038.
93 points
David Schildknecht - VinousEnormous power and concentration, but also an extremely vivid acidity make this riesling GG really stand out from the 2021 crowd. Amazing apricot and King Alphonso mango aromas. Very long, stony and salty finish that pulls your hand inexorably back to the glass. Drink or hold.
97 points
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2021 Keller AbtsE Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$650. 00Bottle$7800.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Bittersweet floral and herbal elements, typical for this bottling, surge from the glass. Lavender, thyme, wormwood, licorice, iris and gentian are expressed as if from a distillate. Along with these come intimations of the white peach and grapefruit – strongly marked by their pits and pips – that then explode in the mouth. As with the other Keller Grosse Gewächse of this vintage, the sense of sheer density conveyed is formidable, but the mid-palate impression is more expansive, and the overall effect is more expressive at this youthful stage than in the Hubacker or Morstein. Textural richness counteracts what might otherwise have been the austere and severe effects of strongly, near-bitter piquancy and underlying chalkiness. Freshly ground coriander seed and black pepper add further stimulation, and chalky impressions ground a penetrating and vibrantly bright finish entirely reflective of this wine’s intense aromas, and one that leaves gums, cheeks and tongue tingling. Drink 2022-2044.
96 points
David Schildknecht - VinousIt’s hard to find words for the astonishing depth and purity of this perfect dry riesling that is driven by the characteristically racy acidity of the vintage, but subsumes this into a seamless whole, the staggering herbal freshness exactly balancing the titanic depth. Drink or hold.
100 points
JamesSuckling.com - 2021 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$52. 99Bottle$635.88 DozenABV: 12%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
The Riesling Trocken is such a perfect foray into Keller wines as it is always treated with the same meticulous care as their top releases. While 85% of Keller holdings are classified as 'Grand Cru', only 15% of their wines are labelled as such meaning a lot of premium fruit goes into the other releases including this fantastic wine. Jancis Robinson MW famously stated “If I had to choose one wine to show how great dry German Riesling can be I would choose a Keller Riesling.”
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2021 Keller Von der Fels RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$91. 99Bottle$1103.88 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkIt would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels.
Other Reviews....
About half of this Riesling comes from Kirchspiel (representing most of the Keller’s vines in that site that aren’t close to seventy years old), with the rest mostly from Hubacker; but the other Westhofen crus are also marginally represented. Apple and white peach aromas are laced with basil and mint in an alluring aromatic display. Zesty lime, ginger and coriander seed serve for startling inner-mouth stimulation and striking vivacity against a background of satiny, glossy richness. The finish grips cheek-tuggingly, deploying pip- and pit-piquancy for maximum stimulation, while delivering consummate refreshment. Drink 2022-2036.
92 points
David Schildknecht - VinousLovely nose of ripe apricot and summer meadows. What a beautiful balance of vibrant acidity and ripe fruit with the chalkiness adding another element to this interplay and filling out the generous palate. Super-bright and refreshing finish. A cuvee of wines from various GG sites with Kirchspiel playing the largest part. Drink or hold.
93 points
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.comThe dry counterpart to Limestone Kabinett, from different parts of the same vineyards. Low yields, 40 hl/ha (20% lost due to mildew in June plus green harvest). Bottled mid May 2022.
Green fruits and deep citrus but with a mineral character that is more oily than stony. Richer and more spicy than in some vintages. There’s power in this wine that would probably be a Grosses Gewächs in the portfolio of most other producers. Then after that powerful first impression, it pulls in tight and fresh on the finish. A lot of impact initially. Then great freshness on the finish.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com - 2021 Keller Limestone (off-dry) RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$59. 99Bottle$719.88 DozenABV: 9%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
Sourced predominantly from the Hubacker and Kirchspiel 'GG' sites, the limestone presents incredibly concentrated fruit and spice along with a gentle touch of sweetness, Sabre-like acidity brought together in seamless balance.
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2021 Keller Limestone Riesling KabinettRheinhessen, GERMANY$91. 99Bottle$1103.88 DozenABV: 7.5%Closure: CorkIt would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
Other Reviews....
This cuvée consists, as usual, largely of Kirchspiel but with some contributions from Abtserde and, to a lesser extent, (Oberer) Hubacker. Apple blossom and peony waft from the glass. And “wafting” also describes this delicate and delightful Kabinett’s palate performance, which combines succulence of apple and honeydew melon backed by textural gloss and discreet sweetness with brightness and lime zest. The finish is so bright and zesty that it’s almost tongue-lashing, but in a very positive, stimulating way. A bittersweet liquid, floral perfume lingers along with the refreshing effects of infectious juiciness. The wine dares you to resist the next sip. Drink 2022-2044.
92 points
David Schildknecht - VinousThis is the only one among the 2021 Kabinetten that is already bottled. 30-year-old vines from Kirchspiel and Abtserde (too young for the Grosse Gewächse wines). The exact origin varies by vintage. This is the Kabinett counterpart to the dry Von der Fels. RS 45 g/l.
Intense aroma of sweet herbs, fresh flowers and green fruits. Exotic fruits and even wild strawberries. According to Keller, such aromas are lost if the fruit ripens quickly. Yet this is stony/mineral too, the aroma of just-crushed stones. As it warms up, there is a hint of ginger and sweet spice. Scented on the palate as on the nose. Thanks to the crunchy acidity, the sweetness seems almost to disappear on the finish, giving an intense citrus impression. There’s an electric tension to this mouth-watering wine. It is hard to put it into words but the acidity feels dry. Perfect balance is a mark of the 2021 Kabinetten.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
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2020 Keller AbtsE Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$570. 00Bottle$6840.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Lavender, thyme, iris, narcissus, lemon and grapefruit confront the nose. The polished, subtly silken palate impression is more coolingly green-herbal and sweetly suggestive in inner-mouth perfume than the assertive pungency that the aromas suggested. As usual for this always remarkable bottling, there is an amazing sense of clarity, vibrancy and lift, accompanied by a near-kaleidoscopic interaction of floral, herbal, citric and mineral elements. Drink 2021-2040.
95 points
David Schildknecht - VinousThis is only just beginning to open up, but already the peach, melon and mint nose is already incredibly deep and delicate. Breathtaking minerality and vibrant grapefruit character electrify the totally focused palate. Almost endless finish. Drink or hold.
100 points
JamesSuckling.com -
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2020 Keller Von der Fels RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$91. 99Bottle$1103.88 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkIt would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels.
Other Reviews....
The cool nose of crisp pear, lemon zest and parsley is exactly reflected in the precise and mineral palate that doesn’t have a gram of fat on it. Long, finely etched finish that’s full of expression. Drink or hold.
93 points
JamesSuckling.comIt’s never easy to assess a wine that’s only been in bottle for a week, as fermentation aromas can blur the picture to some extent.
There are plenty of pleasant aromas to pick from with fresh mint and parsley, apple and pear, citrus and elderflower. Very creamy on the palate, acidity seems quite restrained, but compensated for by the taste of sweet grapefruit and lemon, including juice, zest and peel. Finishes on the merest of salty nuances. Drink 2022 - 2032.
17.5/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com - 2019 Keller Von der Fels RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$79. 99Bottle$959.88 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels.
Other Reviews....
A wine to inhale. A composition of green mint, sage and chalk which would refresh even the most exhausted of olfactory senses. Squeaky clean and fresh on the palate, with an intriguing touch of tropical fruit, sweet lemon too, healthy acidity and chalky mineral finish. Has not quite unfolded its full potential yet. Drink 2021 - 2034.
18/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com - 2019 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$49. 99Bottle$599.88 DozenABV: 11%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
The Riesling Trocken is such a perfect foray into Keller wines as it is always treated with the same meticulous care as their top releases. While 85% of Keller holdings are classified as 'Grand Cru', only 15% of his wines are labelled as such meaning a lot of premium fruit goes into his other releases including this fantastic wine.
- 2020 Keller Limestone RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$54. 99Bottle$659.88 DozenABV: 10%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
Sourced predominantly from the Hubacker and Kirchspiel 'GG' sites, the limestone presents incredibly concentrated fruit and spice along with a gentle touch of sweetness, Sabre-like acidity brought together in seamless balance.
- 2020 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$49. 99Bottle$599.88 DozenABV: 11.5%Closure: Cork
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
The Riesling Trocken is such a perfect foray into Keller wines as it is always treated with the same meticulous care as their top releases. While 85% of Keller holdings are classified as 'Grand Cru', only 15% of his wines are labelled as such meaning a lot of premium fruit goes into his other releases including this fantastic wine.
-
- 96
- 96
2019 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$370. 00Bottle$4440.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Keller's 2019 Kirchspiel Riesling GG opens puristic and chalky on the nose with lemon oil and woodruff aromas. Juicy, round and rich on the palate, with smooth suppleness, fine tannins and a stimulating kick on the finish, this is a less puristic but juicy and intense Riesling of great class. Drink 2023 - 2040.
96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)Still waters run deep! Warm and ripe, yet such delicate mirabelle aromas with a ton of herbal overtones. Concentrated and well structured, but also with lovely juiciness. Then comes the long, vibrant and energetic finish that's full of spice. Drink or hold.
96 points
JamesSuckling.comA pungent herbaceous nose settles down after a bit of airing into an animating green-herbal fragrance, complemented by earthy and chalky mineral notions. On the palate there are some fine nuances of citrus fruit, but the main flavour revolves around a refined combination of fresh green mint and pronounced salty minerality, supported by vibrant acidity and a delicate sprinkling of spice. Drink 2020-08-25.
18/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com -
- 96
- 96
2019 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$799. 00Bottle$9588.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Keller's 2019 Morstein Riesling GG Alte Reben is one of the finest dry Rieslings of the vintage. From 75-year-old vines and aged in a 1,000-liter oak vat, this iconic Morstein opens with a very clear, lemony and chalky bouquet along with floral notes and perfectly ripe and concentrated yet still coolish fruit aromas. Full of finesse, mineral vitality and tension, this is a very intense and complex Riesling that develops spectacular length, which is carried onward by a fascinating, razor-sharp and steely, iron-coin, crystalline acidity. After a while in the glass, the wine sheds notes of orange blossoms and Muscat, along with honey flavors and Mediterranean herbal aromas. The yeasty layers are so delicate, like if this were Champagne. The finish is endless. What a noble dry Riesling! Drink 2026 - 2050.
99 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)Weighty with ripe-apricot and chalky character and great tannins, but also with darkness and mystery. This rich, highly structured dry riesling embraces you and doesn't want to let go. A major statement, but still moderate in alcohol and very clean at the super long finish. Drink or hold.
98 points
JamesSuckling.comA fresh and exhilarating expression of herbal and vegetal aromas not only declares the use of spontaneous fermentation, but also successfully avoids its main flaw of medicinal pungency. On the palate minerality takes charge with compact and cool earthy and stony notes. The mineral impact is tastefully buffered by juicy fruit, but riveting acidity keeps the taste buds on their toes. Has plenty of edge without being aggressive. Long term. Drink 2022 - 2032.
19/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com -
- 95
2019 Keller Frauenberg Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$370. 00Bottle$4440.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
A powerful and tightly wound dry riesling with serious concentration, this is still a bit embryonic in the nose with mirabelle, herbal and flinty notes. However, on the palate it already gives a lot of pleasure and the long finish is beautifully supported by the firm tannins and acidity. Drink or hold.
95 points
JamesSuckling.comFirst vintage since they have had control of the vines in this 0.65-ha parcel. Planted in the mid 80s. The Kellers swapped a parcel of Pinot Blanc for this Riesling, just above their Frauenberg Pinot. The grower they swapped with thought he had won the lottery because of the differences in yields – which were more valuable to him than the Frauenberg Riesling, with its older vines and lower yields, was to the Keller family. Cask sample.
Tasted blind. More spice and herbs and less fumy character here compared with the Morstein but marked by a spicy minerality and a note of bitter orange. On the nose is a sense of power but this is not matched completely on the palate, which is less intense even if it is persistent. There’s a breadth and savour that is more like Morstein than like Kirchspiel but less 'dark'. Long but not quite as intense on the mid palate as the Morstein and the Kirchspiel. Drink 2021 - 2030.
17.5/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 97
- 97
2019 Keller Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$370. 00Bottle$4440.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
From yellow-colored limestone soils in Keller's monopole since 1789, the 2019 Hubacker Riesling GG opens pure, flinty and spicy on the very intense yet refined nose with lemon, herbal and yeasty tones. This is pure, vital or almost racy on the palate, which is an excellent counterpoint to the suppleness and richness of this Hubacker that displays mandarin and white peach aromas. The wine is silky, fresh and juicy but also enormously mineral and tensioned, with impressive grip and length. I have never had a Hubacker at such a high level. Drink 2020 - 2043.
97 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)Ripe and succulent, this generous dry riesling is so easy to enjoy, but also has so much depth and finesse. Stunning apricot, pineapple and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
97 points
JamesSuckling.comReally cool and fresh on the nose with aromas of crushed basil and mint. A hint of almond blossom makes a delicate floral contribution. The flavour of the Hubacker combines sappy herbaceous and herbal elements with subtle notes of mandarin and citrus peel, served on a creamy texture. Acidity is well integrated, just adding a slight lemony touch to the finish. Drink 2021 - 2030.
18.5/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com -
- 100
- 99
2019 Keller AbtsE Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$550. 00Bottle$6600.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Grown only 200 meters away from the old-vines Morstein, the 2019 Abts E(rde) Riesling GG combines perfect fruit ripeness with delicate concentration as well as notes of chalk, flint and iron. There is a similarity to both Kirchspiel (minty, herbal and chalky notes) and Morstein (transcendency), but this has unique ripeness and concentration of fruit, with shredded lemon rind and unique finesse. Round and juicy on the palate, this is a supple and intense yet delicate and silky Riesling with a firm structure built by very fine tannins and remarkably fine acidity. There is this slushy chalkiness combined with lemon oil typical for this terroir. The finish is highly intense and long. Drink 2022 - 2045.
99 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)Why fret, why worry if you can drink this unbelievable wine? Mind-blowing nose of apricot, fresh pineapple and a thousand spices. Ravishing interplay of fruit, acidity, minerals and so much else that isn't easy to describe in a few measly words. The ultra long finish is so uplifting and utterly joyful. Drink or hold.
100 points
JamesSuckling.comAlthough the Abts E gets out of the starting blocks with an assertive herbaceous fragrance, further airing reveals gentle floral nuances and a potpourri of garden herbs with oregano and marjoram the most recognisable ones. On the palate the herbal expression is quite concentrated, yet at the same time fairly soft and complemented by just a smidgeon of aniseed. A deliciously salty tang adds further sensory delight. Gentle, cool and elegant. Drink 2022 - 2032.
19/20 points
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com -
- 100
- 100
2019 Keller G-Max RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$2199. 00Bottle$26388.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Keller's extremely rare and mysterious 2019 Riesling G-Max displays an intense lemon-yellow color and opens fascinatingly deep, pure, refined and highly complex on the stony, intense and concentrated nose. The palate is a continuation of the nose and reveals beautifully balanced, seamlessly silky-textured richness and mouth-salivating salinity. Sourced from the oldest vines of the family domain, this is the greatest wine I have had from Keller and one of the finest 2018s (sic) I have tasted. Drink 2021 - 2060.
100 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)The perfect introduction to the greatness of the dry rieslings of the Wonnegau sub-region of Rheinhessen. An entire spectrum of yellow fruit, ripe and rich, yet delicate and cool, this has seamless harmony that's very hard to resist. The enormous depth only shows itself at the spectacular, crescendo finish, but even there it's dazzling, bright and clean. Limited production. Drink or hold.
100 points
JamesSuckling.comCask sample, tasted blind. Smoky aroma marked by fumy note from ambient-yeast fermentation. Spicy minerality. Really tight and almost chalky in the texture. High, mouth-watering acidity. Dusty, too, that chalky mineral character I associate with limestone. Apparently the site for this wine is even higher in limestone than Hubacker. Lime and herbs in the tension. Massive concentration here and spice on the finish. Really stony, persistent and the citrus power swells on the finish. A stony grip that has the distinction of a site rather than pure power. Density and power but still mouth-watering. Drink 2023 - 2035.
19/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 95
- 100
2018 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$799. 00Bottle$9588.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
The minerality here is astonishing — the citrus fruit is so pure and so powerful that it prickles the inside of your nose like a pickle or heady spice. Crushed bones, wet stones and flint are dialed up nearly to perfection. Talk about vertical? No. Talk about a skyscraper! It has so much energy it nearly explodes, the acidity rising up to infinity and beyond. Staggering freshness and length. If this doesn’t blow you away, nothing will. Drink now or hold for a very, very long time.
100 points
JamesSuckling.com (Oct 2019)There is downright severity to the penetration that this delivers on the nose – of crushed citrus seeds, oregano, sea breeze and chalk dust – as well as to the gripping tactile impingement of those elements on the palate. The feel is firm, but even taken together with the aforementioned sense of severity, the wine doesn’t come off as austere, thanks to its mouthwatering salinity and abundant bright juiciness of lime and grapefruit. The vibratory finish is tongue-lashing in intensity, but you don’t have to be some kind of masochist to enjoy drinking this, because it’s refreshing as well as rivetingly fascinating. I’m left with a paradoxical set of impressions: On the one hand of a palate-scouring, on the other hand, of chalk, salt and citrus oil layers having been deposited that it would be hard to scrape from my teeth. What I wrote about this wine’s vintage 2017 predecessor holds true here as well: “[F]or all that [it] approaches hyper-concentration, it nonetheless exhibits an exhilarating sense of animation and lift while compelling the next sip.” To which observation Keller responded, “That’s exactly how it should be.” Drink 2020 - 2036.
95 points
David Schildknecht - VinousLike the Hubacker, the fruit is golden, ripe and spicy – yellow plum, ripe grapefruit and Seville orange. But there is also a strong fumy herbal character of Riesling from a top site spontaneously fermented. Savoury/mineral spice counterbalanced by intense lemon fruit, more citrus than the Hubacker on the palate but equally powerful and concentrated. So intense it feels as if it needs a little water to reveal its full aroma, the way some single malts do, but it just needs time (please don’t add water). Extreme wine of such intensity it is almost painful to taste now, though it could also be to do with a build up of acidity during the tasting. Wait.
18.5+/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com -
- 95
- 97
2018 Keller Hipping Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$870. 00Bottle$10440.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Brilliantly pure nectarines, flint, gunpowder, bitter lemons and a touch of green paprika. The acidity seeps into every corner of your palate, painting a wild array of bright lemons and limes. The savage intensity of citrus fruit is tamed by a tense, phenolic line of density and flavor.
97 points
JamesSuckling.com (Oct 2019)Once again, this bottling represents the mid-slope vines in Keller’s Hipping, fruit from those above and below having been directed to the corresponding Kabinett and (70% Hipping) Niersteiner cuvée. Musky, bittersweet, iris-like perfume haunts the nose, accompanied by scents of white peach, lemon and orange, as well as smoky and crushed stone notes. The firm, full but by no means heavy palate delivers tang and piquancy of peach close to the core, a pronounced sense of mineral suffusion, zesty citricity and inner-mouth persistence of floral perfume. Bite of mustard seed and pungency of green tea add further invigoration and complexity to a vibrantly sustained finish strikingly strong on stony, smoky and alkaline notes, but unfailing in its duty to refresh. From his prime parcels in Hipping and Pettenthal, Keller is turning out the most memorable Nierstein Rieslings since the many glorious pre-1980 decades of Franz Karl Schmitt’s eponymous estate, from which Keller acquired them. Drink 2020 - 2036.
95 points
David Schildknecht - VinousVery pale gold. Both ripe-fruited and lightly smoky/mineral on the nose. Spicy too. Citrus and apricot. Still showing quite strong herbal character on the palate from the combination of site, variety and spontaneous fermentation. But there’s also grapefruit tension and precision on the palate, drawing in after the richness of the aroma. Deep, generous but edgy with freshness and energy. Creamy persistent finish. Wonderful balance between the caress of the texture and the taut citrus freshness of the finest Riesling fruit.
17.5/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com -
- 96
2018 Keller G-Max RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$2099. 00Bottle$25188.00 DozenClosure: CorkOther Reviews....
On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish. Drink 2022 - 2038.
96 points
David Schildknecht - VinousPale gold with green lights. This takes me back to the Kirchspiel in its greater subtlety on the nose compared with the Hubacker and AbtsE. It smells rich and golden, smells of wealth and luxury, but not in a showy way. Bitter orange, ripe pear, spiced lemons, but they are expressed in a way that you have to look for them and give them time. This is silky in the mouth, rich but light on its feet, spicy but pure-fruited. Full of contrasts that create balance. There is still the smoky spice of the Grosse Gewächse but again it is restrained and all tied up with the purity of fruit. I find this better balanced than the 2017, less extreme and therefore offering more pleasure, should you be lucky enough to be able to find and afford a bottle. Wonderful freshness and precision on the finish.
19/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com -
- 99
2018 Keller AbtsE Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$550. 00Bottle$6600.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Electrifying minerals take the nose by storm, filling every cavity with limestone, gunflint, iron shavings, stainless steel, iron railings, church spire and billiard table. How much citrus fruit can you fit in your mouth? Drink this and find out! This channels monumental, iron-laced tentacles of flavor to latch onto a kaleidoscope of stoney and rocky flavors. More tension than your head can deal with.
99 points
JamesSuckling.com (Oct 2019)A high-toned, penetrating aromatic display features mint, thyme, iris, honeysuckle, zesty lime and prominently pit-inflected white peach. Shades of this year’s Hubacker: The palate impression here is almost shocking for its sheer lusciousness of fruit, with drippingly ripe honeydew melon joining the peach and lime. Not that this beauty is wanting for Abtserde-typical inner-mouth floral perfume, or for a mineral dimension; a mouthwatering savor akin to raw scallop incorporates salt, chalk and iodine nuances. It’s just that it boasts a generosity of forward fruit and a torrent of primary juiciness as well. A silken feel adds to the wine’s seductive appeal. Musky floral, salty mineral and lusciously fruity elements play against one another on a vibrant, sensationally sustained finish that tugs at the salivary glands and leaves the taster both invigorated and refreshed. This should for many years stand as a high point of its vintage as well as of the Grosses Gewächs genre. Drink 2020 - 2040.
97 points
David Schildknecht - VinousGorgeously smoky and spiced, lightly reductive nose, marked by those wild herbs and fumes of spontaneous ferment and ripe pear and smoky stone fruit. The overall effect is more savoury than fruity. So much spice. This is both richer at the moment and more acidic than the preceding GGs and I find it seems less well balanced and extremely difficult to assess. Of course it is intense and persistent but the acidity seems more pointed and less well integrated at the moment. I went back to this wine and compared it with the 2017 and could see better where it might be heading, and on second tasting that saltiness had become more obvious, as well as a chalky texture. This really needs time to both come together, gain some breadth on the palate and to open out. Keller explains that of all their vineyards, this one has the highest level of active lime and takes the longest for the components to integrate.
18++/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com -
- 92
- 98
2018 Keller Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$299. 00Bottle$3588.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Reminiscent of a lemon drizzle cake ,straight out of the oven, with lemon curd plastered on top in abundance. A very structured and very powerful palate follows with a clear sensation of chewy tannins — yes, on a white! — and outstandingly compressed citrus fruit. Drink now or hold.
98 points
Jamessuckling.com (Oct 2019)Scents of white peach, greengage, grapefruit and lemon are already strongly marked by their pits and peels. These are accompanied by high-toned evocations of mint and a whiff of chalk dust. Yet the polished palate delivers succulent fruitiness that’s unusual for a Riesling of the Grosses Gewächs genre, even though combined with invigorating zest, piquancy and tartness. Mint returns in the impressively sustained finish for a delightfully cooling influence that, along with sheer juiciness, complements chalkiness and counteracts any tendency of fruit pits and citrus zests toward bitterness. This strikes me as an unusually expressive Hubacker, not to mention an unusually forward, generously fruited (albeit also piquant and chalky) Grosses Gewächs. Drink 2020 - 2030.
92 points
David Schildknecht - VinousI really wasn’t ready to move on to this after the Kirchspiel. Slightly deeper gold than the Kirchspiel and so different in fruit profile. Smells richer and riper, the fruits ranging from golden plum through apricot and bitter orange. Spicy too, golden and savoury in character. On the palate, it surprises by the extreme freshness – not what I expected after the breadth and oily ripeness on the nose. Even so the balance is perfect – a miracle to get this fruit character together with this intense freshness. Mouth-watering, super-concentrated, bolder than the Kirchspiel but balanced in its more muscular components.
19+/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com -
- 95
- 97
2018 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$299. 00Bottle$3588.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Beautifully pure, flowery aromas here, ranging from bright jasmine to guava peel and orange blossom. Linear, racy and tight, yet concentrated. Medium-to full-bodied and fascinatingly refined and layered. Drink now or hold.
97 Points
Jamessuckling.com (Oct 2019)Lime, lavender, chalk dust and sea breeze on the nose anticipate the pungency, zest, stoniness and mouthwatering salinity that prevail on a polished but firm palate. On top of that, there is an ingratiating as well as refreshing abundance of primary juiciness, as well as added complexity by way of pungent green tea. The finish is startlingly bright, focused and penetrating, adding a savory dimension to the aforementioned herbal, saline and chalky elements for a mouthwatering evocation of raw oyster. Drink 2020 - 2036.
95 points
David Schildknecht - VinousWhere the Pettenthal is complex and incredibly intense on the nose, Kirchspiel is all restrained fragrant beauty. Yes, it does have a touch of smoky spice but it is all finesse. A subtle but irresistible temptress of minerality and stony citrus purity. This is a stunning vintage for Kirchspiel: extreme purity, core intensity of the finest fruit, but all so incredibly subtle and unshowy. Such wonderful freshness you might be deceived into thinking it lighter than the Pettenthal but it’s not, it is just quieter, more poised. Endless and so profound.
20/20 points
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com - 2016 Keller Limestone Kabinett RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$56. 99Bottle$683.88 DozenABV: 9%Closure: Cork
Other Reviews....
Sourced from the younger plots of the prized ‘First Growth’ Abtserde & Kirschspiel. Keller ist Keller. Amazing producer.
Beautiful talc perfume, and maybe something like guava, ripe lime, rocks and candles, and, well, just other delightful Riesling stuff. Intense lime and green apple, chalky and slaty, good punch of crystalline acidity tussling with juicy sweetness, and an uplifting finish of perfume, precision and lip-smacking satisfaction. This is how you do a pow pow powerful off-dry Riesling.
95 points
Gary Walsh - Winefront -
- 94
2018 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$44. 99Bottle$539.88 DozenCellar: Drink now - 8 Years (2019-2027)ABV: 12%Closure: Diam CorkConsidered to be one of Germany’s greatest estates Keller’s wines are some of the most sought after Rieslings in the market, Jancis Robinson once stated “If I had to choose one wine to show how great dry German Riesling can be I would choose a Keller Riesling.” Whilst this is their entry level Riesling, Keller gives just as much attention to the making of this wine as he does to his GG bottlings.
Brilliant pale straw colour with greenish tinged edges and a watery hue. Lemon and lime notes intermix with hints of mandarin and green apple scents over a flinty wet stone back drop. Shimmering lemon and lime aromas are to the fore underpinned by notions of crunchy red apple, mandarin and flinty mineral characters. Zesty mouthfeel and a dry finish with crisp acidity leading into a long aftertaste.
Drink over the next 6-8 years.
Alc. 12% -
- 95
2017 Keller AbtsE Riesling Auslese GoldkapselRheinhessen, GERMANY$250. 00Bottle$3000.00 DozenABV: 7.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
This issued from the upper reaches of the Abtserde – stony and meager in topsoil – and from fruit roughly 25% botrytized. mirabelle, quince and white raisin soar from the rim of the glass. In the mouth, a satiny feel and a hint of oiliness enhance the sense of jellied and dried fruits. But as with the corresponding Spätlese and “regular” Auslese, bright animation and invigorating tactile stimulation emerge, here in the form of sizzling raw ginger and lime peel. There is an almost severe sense of concentration that translates into a gripping, nearly ineradicable finish, accompanied by vibrancy such as runs virtually throughout the vintage 2017 Keller collection, at whatever level of residual sugar. Drink 2019 - 2048.
95 points
David Schildknecht - VinousThe 2017 Gold Kap Auslese from the Abtserde is equally stunning. The bouquet has a gentle and truly beautiful glaze to it, offering up scents of white cherries, yellow plums, honeycomb, citrus blossoms, violets and a lovely undertow of limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full, complex and very light on its feet, with a lovely core, great grip and length and a very complex, refined and zesty finish. Gorgeous juice
95 points
John Gilman - A View From The Cellar - 2017 Keller Westhofen Riesling Auslese (375ml)Rheinhessen, GERMANY$79. 99Bottle$959.88 DozenABV: 8.5%Closure: Cork
Other Reviews....
Cask sample. 2,600 half bottles. Usually 100% Morstein but this year 80% Morstein (grand cru) and 20% Abts E. Many of the grapes looked like currants. Some botrytis.
Sweet exotic fruit. Passion fruit, apricot, bitter orange, all jumping out of the glass. Still a light oily minerality. Wow, totally exotic fruit on the palate, rich, concentrated but no excess weight thanks to the outstanding acidity. High acid gives electricity on the palate, searing freshness but still remarkably in balance.
19/20 points
Julia Harding - jancisrobinson.com - 2017 Keller Hubacker Riesling Auslese GoldkapselRheinhessen, GERMANY$250. 00Bottle$3000.00 DozenABV: 7.5%Closure: Cork
Other Reviews....
Incredibly exotic fruit, orange, apricot, passionfruit. Super-sweet but still balanced. Just essence of sweet Riesling at the moment. Too extreme to drink now. I’ve run out of words to describe intensity.
19/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.comAnother outstanding example of the vintage, with lovely purity to its fruit component coupled with great acidity and chalky minerality. The nose offers up a complex blend of white peach, a hint of the yellow plum to come, limestone soil tones, citrus blossoms and an estery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is crisp, full and succulent on the attack, with great refinement and balance, zesty acids and a long, complex and energetic finish that closes with lovely limestone mineral drive. Fine, fine juice.
94+ points
John Gilman - A View From The Cellar - 2017 Keller AbtsE Riesling AusleseRheinhessen, GERMANY$210. 00Bottle$2520.00 DozenABV: 8%Closure: Cork
Other Reviews....
Pale gold. Again the fruit is really exotic here but there’s also a light mineral smokiness, almost dusty/chalky on the nose. Essence of apricots on the palate and even with the extremes of sweetness and acidity it is already in balance even though it is intense and super-concentrated. Tastes as if it has been reduced down to essence of apricot, eye-watering and almost impossible to taste now. My teeth are screaming already at the build-up of acid through this tasting. Succulent, so rich and so fresh, the flavours ring out like bell on a frosty morning.
19/20 points
Julia Harding - jancisrobinson.comKlaus-Peter noted that the Abtserde Auslese was made almost entirely from shriveled berries in 2017. This wine is a bit more closed on the nose than the Spatlese, but equally pure and vibrant in its constellation of pear, ripe apple, tangerine, limestone minerality, a touch of honeycomb, orange zest and a floral topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-full, refined and nascently complex, with racy acids, laser-like focus and stellar grip on the very, very long, pure and oh, so promising finish. This will probably start to drink well in five or six years, but its true apogee will be a decade or two down the road. Brilliant young wine! 2024-2075.
95 points
John Gilman - A View From The Cellar -
- 96
2017 Keller Hubacker Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$220. 00Bottle$2640.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
The richest and boldest of Keller's 2017 GGs, but it also has great structure and a powerful, mineral and herbal finish. Although it is already showing plenty of citrus character, a lot more will come out if you're patient. Drink in 2019.
96 points
JamesSuckling.comMineral spice dominates the nose at the moment though there’s no lack of citrus precision. As it opens, the fruit seems riper, almost a touch exotic – orange and pawpaw, even passion fruit. Then tighter on the palate, much more mineral and upright but has striking power that builds across the palate. Still has the saltiness of Kirchspiel but more spice, power rather than intensity. So long. I thought I could see some SO2 here but Klaus Peter Keller says free SO2 is around 20-25 mg/l (added November). Sounds odd but I find something like hay on the finish.
18/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 95
2017 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$220. 00Bottle$2640.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Ripe and suave with a great balance of peachy fruit, a minty note and really elegant acidity. The long, chalky finish is very graceful. A serious wine that's relatively easy to understand. Drink or hold.
95 points
JamesSuckling.comA definite herbal nose in this vintage. Intensely mineral citrus at its foundation, with a touch of spice that seems to come from the minerality. Wow. This is absolutely stunning in its concentration but it is precise and incredibly pure, very very mineral but still with the elegance of Kirchspiel. There’s power but seemingly without effort, nothing brash or showy, it’s all in the most elegant style. Endlessly long. A fantastic combination of intensity and finesse. A slightly sour-citrus aftertaste – salty – that is perfectly in keeping with the whole. Hard to do this wine justice in a few words but the pedigree of site and winemaker are clear.
19.5/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 99
2017 Keller AbtsE Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$420. 00Bottle$5040.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
It's been said, perhaps a million times, that riesling has a peachy aroma. Now this wine redefines what peachy means for this grape, so beautiful is the peach aroma in the nose here. Gigantic concentration, but it remains super-bright and pure. The power at the finish is married to totally uplifting freshness. Drink or hold.
99 points
JamesSuckling.comThis is a little more like the Pettenthal on the nose, wild and fumy and herbal. A high percentage of the fruit was basket pressed. But on the palate it is tight, pure driving citrus fruit, very different from what the nose predicted. Mouth-watering intensity and purity. There’s concentration, depth and weight of fruit but the acidity keeps it light on its feet, and a long spiced/mineral finish. Long salty aftertaste increases the freshness. Impressive but very primary and hard to taste, like tasting something that should be mixed with water before drinking. Too intense? Wait.
18/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 95
2017 Keller Riesling TrockenRheinhessen, GERMANY$39. 99Bottle$479.88 DozenCellar: Drink now - 6 Years (2018-2024)ABV: 12%Closure: Diam CorkBrilliant water like core with greenish tinged edges. The nose sings a chorus of red apple, lime and honeysuckle notes with orange blossom overtones and stony mineral scents on the finish. Racy lime, subtle red apple and tangy citrus flavours show great drive and length over a spine tingling mineral laden core of acidity. Delicate orange blossom infusions are also evident. Superb intensity with a dry zesty finish and long lime, red apple, tangy citrus, light orange blossom and mineral laden aftertaste.
Drink over the next 5-6 years.
Alc. 12%Other Reviews….
As good as ever, with green mango and lime, cut fennel on a cheese board, floral perfume. It’s bright, juicy and tangy, full of flavour, but light on its feet, powdery/chalky texture, cool acidity, a touch of lime and rind on a long firm finish. Keller Trocken is always a delight, and no change here.
Drink 2018-2028+
93 points
Gary Walsh – The Wine Front - 2017 Keller Limestone Kabinett RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$59. 99Bottle$719.88 DozenABV: 9%Closure: Cork
Other Reviews....
Very mineral and almost spicy on the nose even though there’s intense bright citrus fruit – lemon and grapefruit. Like the Scheurebe Kabinett, amazing intensity and purity. Incredible balance between the ripe citrus and the super-high but balanced acidity. Eye-watering freshness and yet it is still elegant. Amazing length. Sweet but balanced. Electric.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 96
2017 Keller AbtsE Riesling SpatleseRheinhessen, GERMANY$199. 00Bottle$2388.00 DozenABV: 8.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Picked in conjunction with the corresponding Grosses Gewächs, this leads with scents of lemon, mirabelle and quince. The lusciously fruited, glossy but buoyant palate adds an animating tang of seedy white currant that sets up an invigorating and dynamic counterpoint with the wine’s sweetness and with the faintly jellied aspects of quince and mirabelle that feature alongside their fresh fruit expressions. A cooling inner-mouth hint of mint and a faint aura of white raisin add further contrast and allure. In keeping with themes familiar from this collection’s memorable Grosse Gewächse, the soaring, superbly sustained finish exhibits striking vibrancy as well as a palpable sense of chalky impingement rare in a sweet Spätlese. What’s more, for all of the richness and flirtation with overripeness on display here, there is infectious juiciness to refresh and encourage the next sip.
96 points
David Schildknecht - VinousDeep yellow plum (from limestone soils says Klaus Peter Keller). Smells beautifully ripe but not overripe. Sweet and intensely fruited – almost too much at this stage. Eye-watering intensity and purity.
17.5++/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 96
2018 Keller Von der Fels RieslingRheinhessen, GERMANY$64. 99Bottle$779.88 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkThe 2018 Von der Fels Riesling Trocken is magnificent this year and is probably the very finest bargain in the universe of dry Rieslings in all of Germany in this vintage! This blend is made from the fruit of younger vines in the Grand Cru Vineyards Hubacker, Kirchspiel, Morstein and Absterde. It clearly shows! Dubbed Rheinhessen’s best producer, Klaus-Peter Keller took over his family’s estate in 2001, focusing on single-vineyard, old vine Riesling. Dubbed the ‘Montrachets of Germany,’ these wines are known for their complexity, weight, & texture.
Other Reviews....
Honed-in purity and focus are the hallmarks of this Riesling. Citrus and green fruit are the exclusive appetizers on the nose. Not only is the acidity knife-edged, but there’s also magnificent depth and focus. Stunning freshness and minerality on the finish with iron-filings that might just shave off a few taste buds!
96 Points
Jamessuckling.com -
- 99
2017 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$580. 00Bottle$6960.00 DozenABV: 12.5%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Hold on tight before you drink this dry riesling! Mind-blowing concentration here, yet it weighs in at just 12.5 per cent alcohol. This gives it an extraordinary impression of weightlessness at the finish. Enormous aging potential. Try in 2019.
99 points
JamesSuckling.comLots of rocky spice on the nose, immediately more open than you might expect for Morstein. Peachy too. Apricot but without the sweetness (and there’s no botrytis on any of the GG wines). Aromatic without being perfumed. Rich and deep and mouth-filling. There’s power but no lack of finesse. Muscular, deep, deep and long. It almost goes without saying about a Keller wine that it is perfectly fresh but it also has all this spice and power. Really rocky and mineral, but dark rock not chalky. Deep, deep wine.
18.5/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com -
- 98
2017 Keller Hipping Riesling Grosses GewachsRheinhessen, GERMANY$599. 00Bottle$7188.00 DozenABV: 13%Closure: CorkOther Reviews....
Extremely deep, but as straight as a laser beam, this is brimming with grapefruit, herb and smoke character. The enormous, mineral freshness on the super-concentrated palate drives the finish out in the direction of infinity. Better from 2019.
98 points
JamesSuckling.comBoth intense and pretty on the nose. Deep citrus and also some peppery white blossom. Mineral spice and herbs too. Then rich in orange pith on the palate, deep and somehow more gentle than the Kirchspiel even though it has real intensity. The acidity is crisp but less defining, much more mouth-filling. Such a contrast with the Kirchspiel. Totally captivating and a wine to lose yourself in, a wine of rich generosity, almost exotic fruit, without any loss of purity and freshness. Endlessly long and already complex but without that saltiness of the Kirchspiel. The freshness is still remarkable on the finish.
19/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com
















































