2023 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs

It is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.

Morstein is the most historic of Keller's holdings, first documented in the 13th century and renowned for its active limestone and clay-marl composition. The vineyard's elevation and exposure give it a reputation for longevity and complexity, making it a cornerstone of Keller's dry Riesling portfolio.

Other Reviews....
From vines planted in 1944, the Westhofen 2023 Morstein Riesling GG opens intense and fine like a perfume, with wet chalk, lemon juice and yellow plum aromas. Full-bodied, pure and refined on the palate, this is a juicy, savory and saline, finely tannic and chalky Riesling with a long, aromatic and stimulating finish. I tasted this potentially great wine as a sample in May 2024. It was to be bottled in July, but it won't be released before May 2025. Drink 2026-2060.
96-98 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewächs is made from 75-year-old vines higher up in the Morstein. Just a touch of reduction still swings on the nose, but underneath, white peach, lemon balm and chervil flirt enticingly. Later on, creamy lemon joins in. Smooth serenity, absolutely cooling depth and an almost zen-like calm define the palate. Lemon at the core is almost incidental to this luminous, cool, profound wine with impeccable purity, poise and freshness. The longer you consider this, the deeper it sinks into that limestone. This is a slender, contoured monument to tranquility. (Bone-dry) Drink 2028-2060.
98 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous

Incredibly dense, bright and fresh, this youthful giant leaps out at you. A deep well of yellow peaches, Mirabelle plums and fresh almonds, with a vein of salty minerality weaving its way through the medium- to full-bodied palate. Gigantic length at the breathtakingly energetic, citrusy and chalky finish. Enormous potential. Drink from release.
99 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com

Someone once described Keller's wines as the Puligny-Montrachet of Germany, and this one exemplifies that association. It’s not the grape variety that takes centre stage here, but the terroir – clay marl with limestone on a rocky subsoil. Everything comes together in perfect harmony: a silky texture, balanced ripeness, and a captivating flow. A hint of iodine mingles with citrus fruit, and the memory of this wine lingers far beyond its finish. Drink 2024-2055.
98 points
Caro Maurer MW - Decanter

Limestone soils. Oldest vines are 75 years old, on the highest part of the slope. Tank sample.
An even deeper note than in the Oberer Hubacker. Spicy, rich, open in citrus and smoky/herbal complexity. A little more obvious reduction here. Altogether a darker, deeper wine that the previous wines from limestone soils. Immense concentration and power, essence of Riesling from this site, which give a more savoury complexity and seems incapable of flirting with the taster. But the taste stays with you for ever. Something here reminds me of Schubertslay even though the soils and the topography are so different. A smoky/herbal aftertaste. Drink 2027-2040.
18.5/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com