2019 Keller Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs
A powerful and tightly wound dry riesling with serious concentration, this is still a bit embryonic in the nose with mirabelle, herbal and flinty notes. However, on the palate it already gives a lot of pleasure and the long finish is beautifully supported by the firm tannins and acidity. Drink or hold.
First vintage since they have had control of the vines in this 0.65-ha parcel. Planted in the mid 80s. The Kellers swapped a parcel of Pinot Blanc for this Riesling, just above their Frauenberg Pinot. The grower they swapped with thought he had won the lottery because of the differences in yields – which were more valuable to him than the Frauenberg Riesling, with its older vines and lower yields, was to the Keller family. Cask sample.
Tasted blind. More spice and herbs and less fumy character here compared with the Morstein but marked by a spicy minerality and a note of bitter orange. On the nose is a sense of power but this is not matched completely on the palate, which is less intense even if it is persistent. There’s a breadth and savour that is more like Morstein than like Kirchspiel but less 'dark'. Long but not quite as intense on the mid palate as the Morstein and the Kirchspiel. Drink 2021 - 2030.
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com