2023 Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs

It is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.

Oberer Hubacker lies in the upper section of the Hubacker vineyard in Dalsheim, characterised by clay-limestone soils with higher limestone content than the parcels below. It is known within the Keller range for its structure and depth, and represents one of the estate's earliest holdings under Grosse Lage classification.

Other Reviews....
Picked at 31 hectoliters per hectare, the sample of the Dalsheimer 2023 Oberer Hubacker Riesling GG is deep and pure yet not ascetic on the nose that indicates ripe fruit with yeasty and saline notes. Full-bodied, tight and fresh on the palate, this is a dense yet weightless and finessed, persistently salty and finely juicy but always calcareous Riesling. Tasted in May 2024, this wine is expected to be released in May 2025. Drink 2025-2060.
95-96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Dalsheimer Oberer Hubacker Monopol Grosses Gewächs opens with prompt Amalfi lemon ripeness on the nose. Harvested from slightly richer soils, this comes in with more weight and concentration on the palate, showing immense lemon brightness and a fine-boned, crunchy texture that tingles with freshness. It’s reminiscent of lemon peel and pith, alongside vivid saltiness and even spice. With a serene bearing, cooling depth and a vibrant, saline edge, it’s all helped along by a subtle textural grip. (Bone-dry) Drink 2028-2060.
96 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous

This compact dry riesling has restrained power, but is still very young and only just beginning to open up. A wide range of aromas, from pomelo through jasmine, that are just opening up. The structure builds quite considerably as this flows over the medium-bodied palate, the fine tannins building beautifully in the very long, warm, yet refined finish. Drink from release.
97 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com

Limestone soils. 2021 was the first vintage in which they were able to label this as Oberer Hubacker, which is the original parcel of Hubacker that has been a monopoly in the Keller family for 100 years. Tank sample.
More green fruits here than in the Kirchspiel, a deeper tone, like going down a tonal scale from von der Fels to Kirchspiel to this wine. Stony/mineral dustiness. On the palate there's great depth and richness, the wine's feet planted more squarely on the ground than those of the Kirchspiel, but it still reaches up to the sky with purity of citrus fruit and intense freshness on the finish. Very long, with extreme tension and freshness. Needs time. As it opens in the glass, it gains more smoky complexity. Drink 2026-2038.
17.5++/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com