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2022 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Other Reviews....
From 60- to 70-year-old vines, the rare 2022 Riesling Westhofener Morstein GG Alte Reben shows a clear and finely chalky bouquet with delicate but juicy fruit and a touch of exoticism but also citrus notes. Dense, juicy and fine on the palate, with delicate salinity and persistent finesse, this is a great, calm, relaxed Morstein Riesling that is not showy but radiantly confident. Tasted at the domaine July 2023. Drink 2025-2045.
96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)
The 2022 Riesling Westhofener Morstein is from 75-year-old vines that were field-grafted over to Riesling in 2009 (halt to Pinot Noir, half to Riesling). The nose is rather muted. Just a glimmer of lemon freshness shines, with a suspicion of reduction. The juicy, chalky palate expands somehow vertically into deep limestone chalkiness and inherent coolness. For now, there is just lemon. Everything else seems locked deep in that limestone freshness and cool profoundness. It will take time to allow the undoubted fruit to loosen itself from the austere stoniness and come to the surface. The extended finish comes with lemon zest and pith. (Bone-dry) Drink 2025-2050.
98 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
Extremely cool nose with great wild herb complexity. Yes, this is very concentrated, but the incredible finesse is what makes it stand out. Become a seeker and travel through this astonishingly varied landscape, admire the details and return home with a treasure chest of memories. Minty freshness of a kind I haven’t encountered before in this vintage. Then the journey continues through the super-long and super-subtle finish. Drink or hold.
98 points
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com
The concentrated power in this is fascinating. There seems to be a bit of everything: citrus, lemon zest and lemon balm, all dense and highly concentrated. In 2022, the good water retention of the heavy clay marl soils with layers of limestone ensured that the vines are adequately supplied and prevented the bitter notes typical of the vintage. The Morstein vineyard rests in the Riesling like a Buddha: lush and powerful, but also contemplative – a wine for hedonists. Drink 2028-2050.
98 points
Caro Maurer MW - Decanter
Tank sample. Cold soil that needs a long time to warm up but in these periods of heat and drought it is an advantage.
Deeply flavoured and 'darker'-tasting than the Schubertslay, earthy/mineral, not in the least fruity. Smells of the land. But on the palate, there’s an explosion of freshness, of green citrus, like shards of glass, a sour-fresh finish. Intense and clenched at the moment but with fabulous intensity. Drink 2029-2039.
19/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com