2020 Keller Von der Fels Riesling
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels.
The cool nose of crisp pear, lemon zest and parsley is exactly reflected in the precise and mineral palate that doesn’t have a gram of fat on it. Long, finely etched finish that’s full of expression. Drink or hold.
It’s never easy to assess a wine that’s only been in bottle for a week, as fermentation aromas can blur the picture to some extent.
There are plenty of pleasant aromas to pick from with fresh mint and parsley, apple and pear, citrus and elderflower. Very creamy on the palate, acidity seems quite restrained, but compensated for by the taste of sweet grapefruit and lemon, including juice, zest and peel. Finishes on the merest of salty nuances. Drink 2022 - 2032.
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com