2019 Keller Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Keller's 2019 Morstein Riesling GG Alte Reben is one of the finest dry Rieslings of the vintage. From 75-year-old vines and aged in a 1,000-liter oak vat, this iconic Morstein opens with a very clear, lemony and chalky bouquet along with floral notes and perfectly ripe and concentrated yet still coolish fruit aromas. Full of finesse, mineral vitality and tension, this is a very intense and complex Riesling that develops spectacular length, which is carried onward by a fascinating, razor-sharp and steely, iron-coin, crystalline acidity. After a while in the glass, the wine sheds notes of orange blossoms and Muscat, along with honey flavors and Mediterranean herbal aromas. The yeasty layers are so delicate, like if this were Champagne. The finish is endless. What a noble dry Riesling! Drink 2026 - 2050.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Apr 2021)
Weighty with ripe-apricot and chalky character and great tannins, but also with darkness and mystery. This rich, highly structured dry riesling embraces you and doesn't want to let go. A major statement, but still moderate in alcohol and very clean at the super long finish. Drink or hold.
A fresh and exhilarating expression of herbal and vegetal aromas not only declares the use of spontaneous fermentation, but also successfully avoids its main flaw of medicinal pungency. On the palate minerality takes charge with compact and cool earthy and stony notes. The mineral impact is tastefully buffered by juicy fruit, but riveting acidity keeps the taste buds on their toes. Has plenty of edge without being aggressive. Long term. Drink 2022 - 2032.
Michael Schmidt - jancisrobinson.com