2018 Keller G-Max Riesling
On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish. Drink 2022 - 2038.
David Schildknecht - Vinous
Pale gold with green lights. This takes me back to the Kirchspiel in its greater subtlety on the nose compared with the Hubacker and AbtsE. It smells rich and golden, smells of wealth and luxury, but not in a showy way. Bitter orange, ripe pear, spiced lemons, but they are expressed in a way that you have to look for them and give them time. This is silky in the mouth, rich but light on its feet, spicy but pure-fruited. Full of contrasts that create balance. There is still the smoky spice of the Grosse Gewächse but again it is restrained and all tied up with the purity of fruit. I find this better balanced than the 2017, less extreme and therefore offering more pleasure, should you be lucky enough to be able to find and afford a bottle. Wonderful freshness and precision on the finish.
Julia Harding MW - JancisRobinson.com