2018 Domaine du Pelican Arbois Chardonnay en Barbi
Domaine du Pélican are based in Montigny-les-Arsures near Arbois in the Jura and was started in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, Burgundy, and François Duvivier, régisseur at Domaine Marquis d’Angerville. The Domaine farms high quality terroirs located in and around the city of Arbois. The plots are among Jura’s finest, the very best being En Barbi and Grand Curoulet. Terroirs here are a mix of marly clay and gravels with varying exposures from north to south, are even more complex than in Burgundy. Whilst a broadly Burgundian approach is employed to wine-making, there is no doubting the individuality and Jurassien personality of the wines. The d’Angerville approach in the cellar has always been light-touch, one which is toned down even more for Domaine du Pélican, little new oak is used and élévage is shorter, lasting twelve months as opposed to eighteen in Volnay. Tanks and foudres are employed for ageing the reds, 500 litre casks for the Savagnin and traditional Burgundian barriques for the Chardonnay. The whites are both “topped up” as opposed to the more common oxidative Jura method.
The 2018 Arbois Chardonnay En Barbi races out of the glass with a stunning display of energy and mineral-drenched energy. Lemon oil, white flowers, almond, chamomile and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that infuse the 2018 with tons of character. Ample and yet sculpted, the 2018 is a wine of total class. In this lineup, the En Barbi is marked by a brilliant aromatic upper register. In a word: dazzling!
Antonio Galloni - Vinous
First bottled separately in 2016 (magnums only) and for the first time in 75-cl bottles for the 2018 vintage, although they have been farming this En Barbi parcel since 2012 and vinifying it separately. A south-facing plot at up to 400 m, sheltered from the winds due to its location at the end of an amphitheatre of hills surrounding it. The soil is silty clay over grey marl, with excellent drainage and low risk of hydric stress. En Barbi was replanted by the previous farmer and the vines are approximately 15 years old. Aged in 350- and 500-litre barrels (50% of total); 30% in foudre and 20% in vats.
Riper than the Grand Curoulet, fuller in the mouth, but more herbal too and a little bit spicy. This has a terrific combination of depth and mouth-watering freshness as well as great persistence. A definite fruit sweetness on the nose and then marked freshness and saltiness on the long, long finish.
Julia Hardin MW - jancisrobinson.com