2015 Suenen La Cocluette Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne
The most northerly of Suenen’s Oiry parcels, La Cocluette is also home to the domaine’s oldest vines (planted in 1925), a site where the ancient roots bury deep into the dense Campanian chalk (the younger plantings from this site go into the Oiry Blanc de Blancs). Vines of this age are as rare as hens’ teeth in Champagne, and they gift tiny yields of concentrated berries. The land here is largely flat with a somewhat northerly exposure. Here the base wine was naturally fermented and aged for 10 months in one 700-litre concrete egg and one 600-litre Stockinger (the same barrel is used each year). It was then aged sur lies for 60 months in bottle until disgorgement in July 2021, and dosed with two grams per litre.
From a parcel planted in 1925, Suenen's 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Oiry La Cocluette unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread, dried white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with racy acids and a long, precise finish, it has turned out very well. Drink 2022 - 2035.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Sep 2022)