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Scintillating 2022 Releases from Germany's finest Keller

It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produces the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.

Part of the formula to this success is due to old vines where many were planted in the 50’s and 60’s, along with incredibly low yields of 35hl/ha or less. Keller also prefers to take active steps to slow the vegetative cycle of the vine during the course of the growing season, resulting in grapes that are some of the last to be harvested in Rheinhessen. Meticulous grape selection follows, allowing a long skin contact time of 30-40 hours before pressing, and then fermentation in a mix of old oak barrels and stainless steel tanks.

While 85% of the estate consists of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) sites, only a tiny proportion is labelled as such meaning there are great values to be had with their entry Trocken Riesling, along with the 'baby GG' Von der Fels. A bit more spicy is the RR, normally from just a half-hectare parcel within Kirchspiel characterized by its red soils. In 2022 though this wine has been blended with some top parcels from Abtserde and Morstein (usually destined for the GGs) that didn't ferment totally dry. The resulting blend is just off-dry, with around 12 g/L of residual sugar, making this RR a serious example of feinherb. On offer also are the off-dry duo of Limestone Riesling and Limestone Kabinett, each being thrilling examples of the style. Not content with crafting the finest Riesling, the Keller family also release a Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) & Chardonnay, their take on white Burgundy utilising grapes from across Dalsheim, and a village-level Sylvaner with plenty of minerality and depth, amongst the best bottlings of this variety.