St. Agnes XXO Exceptional Reserve 50 Year Old Brandy (700ml)

"One of the greatest achievements in Australian winemaking and distilling." - Luke McCarthy

At the time of writing, this is the oldest Australian spirit ever released, the majority distilled between 1970 and 1972 from Doradillo, Pedro Ximenez, Palomino and sultana grapes. Aromatics match the age statement; profound and superbly integrated, laden with rancio, buttered date cake, traces of old muscat, fig paste and fruit'n'nut dark chocolate with no loss of intensity after ample air contact. At five decades, the spirit warmth remains surprisingly present; It's brandy, no question, yet like its 30-year-old sibling, the profile draws comparison with high-end sherried single malt - it could be a single cask Glendronach or Macallan, for example, out of PX - especially at the finish where the sticky date is more salient, checked by hints of orange zest. Pulsing persistence confirms this is seriously old material, and the complex sweet fruit and nut interplay has to compete with some venerable oak. Sweet spices slowly retreat, leaving a glaze of rancio and ancient fortified wine through the aftertaste. Exceptional, and a brandy for lovers of single malt or Armagnac, more so than Cognac. 46% Alc./Vol. 50ml sample.

Other reviews... The mahogany colour indicates plenty of oak, which pays off on the nose – this is far woodier than the younger releases. Forest floor and an attic full of antique furniture creep out of the glass, and perhaps monsters lurk here. Please don't approach unless you like oak. But there’s Cherry Ripe, too, and that St Agnes creaminess I love. On the palate, it turns out the monster wants to hug you. Sure, it smells of sandalwood and leaf litter, but it’s a soft hug nonetheless, and the tannin on the finish is incredibly creamy, like an excellent cup of black tea rather than a dusty old bit of wood. This is perfectly true to style and an outstanding achievement by any measure. 96 points - Fred Siggins, winecompanion.com.au

Notes from the producers... The mahogany colour hints at the flavour in the glass. It smells of decades old tawny, Persian dates, marmalade and snow-white pebbles. It smells of old oiled cricket bats, rocky road chocolate and rose water. It fans out like a peacock’s tail on the palate. Viscous and luscious, bitter candied orange and caramelised apricot. It’s like inhaling the Barrel Halls, as the nutty rancio characters emerge and it just doesn’t stop, as hints of leather, cardamon, prunes and spice-rack linger. There’s light and shade, bright corners and dark corners. It’s hard not to get carried away when tasting an aged spirit with this level of depth and heritage. The kind of spirit that gives you goosebumps and makes the hairs on your neck stand up. One of the greatest achievements in Australian winemaking and distilling. - Luke McCarthy