Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Larmandier-Bernier’s Latitude is a 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These are vineyards on roughly the same latitude and the name also hints at the breadth of texture that the wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer up. In the cellar Larmandier uses mostly large format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria) and less and less steel tanks. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place without inoculation, and there is no fining or filtration. Bottle maturation takes place in the underground cellars over a period of more than two years, and each bottle is disgorged manually, six months before being released and dosed at low, Extra Brut levels.
Once dissipated, the creamy white mousse leaves behind a pale straw coloured base that has a glimmer of gold to the edges. Nibble and exceptionally fine bubbles rising to the surface. On the nose, aromas of pear intermingle with citrus, yeast lees, light baked bread and hints of sherbet. Long, dry and virile, the refreshing palate consists of baked pear, citrus and yeast lees characters over subtle oily toast nuances and faint remanets of biscuit and cashew. The finish is very dry with crisp, mouth watering acidity and a long refined aftertaste.
Drink over the next 4-5 years.
The Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Latitude from Larmandier-Bernier is a powerful, structured wine. Deep and resonant on the palate, the Latitude packs a serious punch. There is no shortage of depth or intensity, that much is clear. Dried apricot, sage, fennel, crushed stone all open up in the glass, adding layers of nuance. Readers should expect an imposing, rich Champagne that will be at its best at the dinner table. Like all of the Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes, the Latitude will offer its best drinking if opened several hours in advance. This release is 60% 2015 and 40% reserve wines. As always, Latitude emerges from clay rich soils that confer breadth. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous