Laherte Freres Ultradition Extra Brut Champagne
Aurélien Laherte’s Ultradition showcases vineyards from 8 villages of the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay & Vallée De La Marne. 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir grown ecologically on limestone soils. The base wine is vinified in a combination of large format foudres, tanks and oak barrels, where it partially goes through malolactic fermentation. The assemblage contains 40% of reserve wines that have been aged in barrel. Finally, the wine spends 6 months maturing on fine lees in bottle before disgorgement for release.
Showing ample buoyancy over a pale straw coloured base is a lacy white mousse. A delicate yet very persistent bead finely threading its way through the wines core. Captivating aromatics of yeast lees and baked bread are followed by some citrus, oily toast like notes and hints of almond. Vividly sculptured the palate combines tension with intensity and richness delivering citrusy yeast lees and toasty baked bread flavours over a stimulating finish of subtle cashew and a chalky minerality. Concludes long and refined with a chiselled feel.
Drink over the next 4-5 years.
The NV Extra Brut Ultradition, the entry-level wine in this range, is wonderfully deep and fleshy, with plenty of Meunier character driving the blend. Dried pear, chamomile and spice are some of the notes that open in the glass. Generous and inviting, the Ultradition has plenty to offer. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. Drink it over the next few years. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: October, 2019.
Antonio Galloni - Vinous