Chartogne-Taillet Les Barres (V18) Extra Brut Champagne

Chartogne-Taillet is the home of some of the most exciting wines in Champagne. Alexandre Chartogne is a perfectionist in his approach to viticulture and winemaking, something he picked up from his mentor Anselme Selosse. Key to his approach is the importance of expressing terroir above all else. With that in mind, Alexandre separately vinifies a myriad of plots spread across 11 hectares of vineyards in Merfy and the neighbouring villages of Chenay and Saint-Thierry. Over half the parcels are ploughed by horse, and no pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers are used. In the winery, all fermentations are wild, and malolactic fermentation is not blocked. Alexandre favours wooden barrels or demi-muids for fermentations, and low dosage levels are used which allow the grapes to speak of their place.

Les Barres is one of Chartogne’s best-known vineyard plots, and with very good reason. This small plot of ungrafted Pinot Meunier vines was planted in 1952, and the vines dig deeply into the chalky subsoil. The low yielding output from this special parcel results in some of the most powerful wines in the Chartogne-Taillet stable. Fermentation takes place in old barrels (228 litre) and goes through partial malolactic fermentation. The wine rests for four years on lees and has a low dosage of three grams per litre.

Other Reviews....
The 2018 Extra-Brut Les Barres, 100% Meunier from own-rooted vines planted in 1952, opens with the most exquisite aromatics imaginable. This is elegance in Meunier personified. Orange peel, hazelnut, tropical flowers and a hint of spice all waft across the palate in a Champagne of magnificent purity and sheer beauty. There is a touch of oak, but it works quite well in complementing the natural savory/nutty character of Meunier. Bright, effusive notes extend the finish effortlessly. Les Barres is a fine effort, especially for the year. Dosage is 3.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2023. Drink 2025-2033.
95 points
Antonio Galloni - Vinous