Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims (V19) Extra Brut Champagne

Chartogne-Taillet is the home of some of the most exciting wines in Champagne. Alexandre Chartogne is a perfectionist in his approach to viticulture and winemaking, something he picked up from his mentor Anselme Selosse. Key to his approach is the importance of expressing terroir above all else. With that in mind, Alexandre separately vinifies a myriad of plots spread across 11 hectares of vineyards in Merfy and the neighbouring villages of Chenay and Saint-Thierry. Over half the parcels are ploughed by horse, and no pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers are used. In the winery, all fermentations are wild, and malolactic fermentation is not blocked. Alexandre favours wooden barrels or demi-muids for fermentations, and low dosage levels are used which allow the grapes to speak of their place.

Chemin de Reims hails from a small plot of just over one hectare, facing south/southeast, and planted 1980, 1995 and 2011. It has Thanetian sands–very iron-rich soils with varied layers and depth before the base of sandstone underneath. The soil character is quite transmissible, particularly in the Chardonnay from this site, which takes on a unique fullness, structure and almost ferric texture. A Blanc de Blancs comprising 85% Chardonnay, and 15% Arbanne, élevage is in both casks (350 to 600 litres) and tanks. Alexandre tends towards a tighter-grained oak for this particular cuvée and this, along with further precision in the cellar, regular topping up and low dosage, allows Alexandre to preserve the purity of expression from this site. The results provide us with Chartogne-Taillet's most powerful and vinous cuvée.

Other Reviews....
Chartogne-Taillet’s 2019 Blanc de Blancs Chemin de Reims, disgorged in May 2024 with a dosage of four grams per liter, is showing magnificently. It unfurls from the glass with an expressive bouquet of nashi pear, orange zest and beeswax, mingling with white flowers and anise. The fruit is sourced from a south-facing, single-vineyard parcel planted between 1986 and 2005, distinguished by its sandy, iron-rich soils. Vinification takes place in 228-liter barrels—primarily from Taransaud and Seguin Moreau—most of which are two to three years old, with 10% new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium- to full-bodied and strikingly multifaceted—brimming with concentration yet retaining remarkable tension. A pristine core of fruit is complemented by ripe but vibrant acidity and a long, chalk-inflected finish. Both the 2019 and 2020 renditions are exceptional, but the 2019 arguably delivers even greater depth and nuance today. Drink 2025-2039.
97 points
Kristaps Karklins - Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate