2023 Savaterre Chardonnay

Keppell Smith's vision for Savaterre found its perfect home in 1996 when he planted vines on the golden-granite slopes of Beechworth. Since then, Savaterre has earned its place among Australia's elite for Chardonnay, thanks to that decomposed granitic loam soil and the altitude-driven climate of the Victorian Alps.

The 2023 vintage delivered a textbook scenario for fine Chardonnay: long warm days and cool nights stretched ripening, while the vineyard's mature, closely-planted vines, and the deliberately small crop per vine, helped deliver exceptional finesse and structure. The fruit was basket-pressed and matured in French oak barriques before resting in bottle to refine texture.

Other Reviews....
A double wow kind of chardonnay, such is the level of deep concentration and the purity of flavour and delivery. Shows a sophisticated side, complex in construction and taste, led by white peach, nectarine, grapefruit pith and peel, spice and a savoury almond influence that lifts both aromatically and flavour-wise. Walks, as ever, a fine line between generosity and fineness, the latter winning the day with some scintillating tangy acid drive in place. And the best part? This still has a long, long journey ahead. Drink 2024-2035.
97 points
Jeni Port - James Halliday's Australian Wine Companion

Cold wet vintage, no reds made (Keppel tipped it all down the drain), but Chardonnay certainly goes all right.
Lots of struck match that subsides given some air, white peach, citrus, almond, some spice and Japanese ginger. Tight, bright and spicy, grapefruity, lovely acid balance, mid-palate bite and intensity, though it’s a discreetly flavoured wine, and the finish is very long. There’s some almond creaminess in the mix too. It’s a finer and less flavour packed than some of the prior vintages, but gee I love its delicacy. Superb. Drink 2025 - 2033+.
96 points
Gary Walsh - The Wine Front

There's depth and restraint aromatically, with a melding of deep curry leaf and struck match reduction which melds with poached nectarine and grilled peach. This is noticeably less obvious and open than the Frère Cadet, with more restraint and a requirement of time to reveal itself. Lime zest and lime juice follow giving a sense of pithy freshness while cashew notes emerge with a further swirl of the glass. The reduction is quite stubborn, but it does melt into the wine with air resulting in an amalgam of pure class and refinement, power and finesse. The palate is textural and sapid while also featuring confident restraint to draw you in. A 'come hither' sensibility. Cashew cream, lime zest, white peach, riverstone minerality, grapefruit pith, a cooling mineral lift. It all glides through the mouth with precision and focus before being drawn long by firm but finespun acidity and chalky grip. I've seen more powerful iterations of this wine, but I do love the restrained complexity and classy refinement here. A crystalline, focused and classy release. Drink from 2025-2033.
96 points
Tom Kline - Inside Burgundy

Aromas of minerals, lemon confit, struck match, salted nuts, oyster shells and pastry. The palate is so tightly wound, with fiercely focused acidity and a vivid mouthfeel that lead to a long, generous finish. Not for the faint hearted. It will benefit from decanting. Drink or hold.
95 points
JamesSuckling.com