2023 Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs

It is difficult to overstate just how central Weingut Keller has become to the modern understanding of dry Riesling. Since Klaus-Peter Keller took over from his father in 2001, the estate has set a global benchmark for precision and expression, joined in recent years by his son Felix, who now plays an increasingly active role in both the vineyards and cellar. Together with Julia Keller, they continue to refine a style that balances crystalline purity with textural depth, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.

Kirchspiel is a steep, east-to-southeast facing amphitheatre in Westhofen with thin, chalk-rich marl over limestone. The site's exposure and cooler air flow are key to its reputation for producing wines of clarity and aromatic lift, and it consistently ranks among Keller's most distinctive Grosse Lage bottlings.

Other Reviews....
The Westhofen 2023 Kirchspiel Riesling GG is deep and intense on the concentrated and calcareous, slightly floral nose. Lush and round on the palate, this is an elegant, finessed and concentrated, very intense, tight and saline-finishing Kirchspiel with fine tannins. There are minty notes and white pepper on the finish. Tasted as a sample in May this year, the wine was to be bottled in July. Drink 2026-2050.
95-96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Riesling Westhofener Kirchspiel Grosses Gewächs is from vines that average 50 years old. Pure, serene, ripe lemon is suffused with creaminess and an ethereal overtone on the nose. The palate is a picture of juicy citrus, lemon balm and white peach. It’s concentrated and zesty but also creamy, with inherent depth and a stoniness that becomes gently textural. It lines the mouth with tingling freshness and some pleasant astringency that only helps to accentuate the finesse and brightness. This finishes with gorgeous length. (Bone-dry) Drink 2028-2060.
96 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous

This is a complex and structured wine, but it still seems to dance on your palate and has a certain playfulness on the nose as well. In fact, these are the things that introduce you to the serious side of the wine. Plenty of peaches, Mirabelle plums, lemon zest and some summer flowers and mint. Then comes the fine chalky minerality, which guides you through the long, elegant finish. Drink from release.
96 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com

Vines aged 60 years. Just 20 cm of topsoil over limestone. First vintage with Kirchspiel on the label was 2002. Tank sample.
Initially more restrained than the Von der Fels, but with intense, deeply mined purity of citrus fruit and a touch of just-ripe apricot plus the merest hint of herbs and stony/smoky minerality. Creamy, too, from the long lees ageing, which has clothed the upright backbone in a softer flesh. That stony character is more marked on the palate, as well as a pithy texture that brings another layer to the fruit. Some grip on the finish. Layered, long, captivating finesse without being showy. The flavours go on and on until the wine seems to take up residence in your mouth. Then a lift of freshness on the finish. As the wine warms, just a touch of honey at the very end even though the wine is bone dry. Drink 2025-2038.
18/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com