2023 Envinate Taganan Parcela Margalagua Tinto

Táganan is both the name of a village on the very north eastern tip of Tenerife and a local term for steep slope. Envínate make two reds and two whites from this village; Táganan Tinto and Blanco, which come from multiple old parcels and two crus, parcelas Campanario and Margalagua. All the wines are field blends containing a dizzying array of obscure local varieties grown on very old bush vines in the steep volcanic soils overlooking the ocean.

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The 2023 Táganan Parcela Margalagua resembles the 2021, perhaps with a little more elegance and depth. They have lowered the use of powder sulfur in the vineyards and they select finer lees for the aging of the wines in barrel; they feel all that has helped to avoid the reductive character in the wine, even if you always have the natural tendency of the volcanic soils. It's a symphony of rose petals, cracked pepper, wet pumice stone and volcanic ash. It's medium to full-bodied, very fine-boned, with fine-grained tannins, with clout, power and concentration and gobsmacking balance. It has 12% alcohol, with a pH of 3.35 and 6.18 grams of acidity. It might have similar acidity and parameters, but the sense of freshness, acid berries and blood orange peel is higher. Bravo! 2,300 bottles were filled in July 2024. Drink 2025-2035.

I later tasted the 2023 blind with the 2021 vintage, and both wines showed some reductive personalities. They both needed to breathe, and they improved over the course of one day. The 2023 feels more floral and elegant, but the wines are of similar quality—to me, the finest two vintages of this unique wine.
100 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate