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2023 Donnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Donnhoff make the best wines in the Nahe region, and some of the finest anywhere in the world. While it was Helmut Donnhoff that launched this estate to worldwide attention, winemaking duties are now managed by his talented son, Cornelius. There's a deep understanding of the grand wines and grand vineyards that's been handed down through the generations. And given the enormous technical proficiency Cornelius has demonstrated so far, Donnhoff is sure to be at the top of the vinous hierarchy for years to come.
Other Reviews....
The 2023 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling trocken GG is beautifully pure, clear and bright or even coolish on the deep and complex nose that is still remarkably discreet but refined for this warm, volcanic terroir and offers elegant notes of melting stones and domestic seed fruits. Round, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a generous, juicy and fruity Riesling with fine tannins and a long, intense, spicy and aromatic, finely saline and mineral finish. This is a mouth-filling, complex and textured Riesling with crunchy tannins on the finish. It's a superb 2023 that should develop beautifully over the years in the bottle. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in August and October 2024. Drink 2025-2050.
95 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2023 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Grosses Gewächs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry and melaphyr. Cornelius Dönnhoff says this is the most challenging site to work, simply because the stones are so hard and unforgiving, retaining almost no water. Thus, a year like 2023 was brilliant for this site. It is always the first GG site to be harvested because the rock retains heat from the day. Tender reduction still casts a flinty spell on the nose. Lovely savor implies crushed citrus foliage merged into iron oxide on the nose. The palate is taut, citric, bright with immense linearity, moving with absolute ease and direction, with energy and punch, towards a zesty, cool finish, long, sustained, all with savor and saltiness. The 2023 is a total joy of clarity, direction and stony poise. This is so elegant, so slender, so powerful, and no, this is not a contradiction. (Bone-dry) Drink 2034-2070.
96-98 points
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. Drink or hold.
98 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com
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