
- 92
2023 Domaine Moreau-Naudet Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru
Founded in the 1950s and now led by Virginie Moreau, this long-established Chablis estate has built a reputation for wines of purity, depth and precision. Virginie continues the legacy of her late husband Stéphane, who steered the domaine toward organic farming, indigenous fermentations and long lees ageing in a mix of stainless steel and neutral oak. The vineyards, centred around Préhy, Courgis and Chablis itself, are managed by hand and cropped at modest yields to capture the tension and minerality that define the region’s greatest sites. Moreau-Naudet's wines are recognised for their textural weight, unforced detail and faithful reflection of terroir, aligning them with the classic, artisanal style of Chablis.
In the Chapelot section of Montée de Tonnerre, directly across from the Blanchots Grand Cru, Moreau farms just over one hectare split across older (50-year) and more recently replanted vines. The vineyard's sandy and rocky topsoils over Kimmeridgian limestone lend this wine a core of mineral austerity. Elevage mirrors that of the other premiers (long time on lees, mixed vessels), giving this wine both concentration and the potential for evolution.
Other Reviews....
With 12.5% alcohol, Moreau-Naudet’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success this year, soaring from the glass with a bouquet of beeswax, honeysuckle and crisp orchard fruit. Matured in a combination of old wood (30%) and tank, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated yet with good tension and structured around racy acids, with ample chalky extract and a long, sapid finish. It derives from a parcel just next to Raveneau’s.
92-94 points
Kristaps Karklins - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
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