2023 Cesar Marquez Perez Sufreiral Mencia

Cesar Marquez has Bierzo running through his veins, and is the latest generation of the Perez family to own the leading Castro Ventosa winery in north-western Spain. Growing up surrounded by the region's leading exponents, including a lengthy apprenticeship with one of the world's greatest winemakers, his uncle Raul Perez, has shaped much of what Cesar values in wine. While he still manages the family estate, Cezar started his own venture in 2015, and is already one of the most exciting young prospects in Spain.

Having a deep understanding and access to some of the best vineyards Bierzo has to offer, Cezar focuses on preserving purity and freshness, highlighting the promise Mencia has in the right place when made with attention to detail. Cezar is structuring his line-up of wines in Burgundian fashion, making a broader appellation wine, a village wine, along with several single vineyard offerings. Winemaking is similar on all wines, with grapes partially destemmed and fermented in open barriques, before spending 12 months in old barrels without any racking or top ups before bottling the following winter. These are wines that are not just great examples of Bierzo Mencia, but wines that truly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest from any region or country.

Sufreiral is a high elevation south-west facing vineyard, close to Pico Ferreira yet on the other side of the slope. Unusually the soils here are limestone leading to a more unique and elegant expression of Mencia.

Other Reviews....
The 2023 Sufreiral comes from a centenary plot in the village of Toral de los Vados on the other, southwest-facing side of Pico Ferreira, one of the few plots on limestone-based soils in Bierzo. It fermented in 1,000-liter vats, as he has different small plots that are vinified separately, with some 35% full clusters and indigenous yeasts (like all his wines). It matured in 600-liter oak barrels and a 1,200-liter oak vat for 12 months. It's very complete, floral and nuanced, elegant and fine-boned, with a different texture, chalky, given the limestone soils. The wine has 13.07% alcohol, a pH of 3.69 and 5.11 grams of acidity. 1,940 bottles were filled in January 2025. Drink 2026-2036.
98 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Sufreiral is 100% Mencía from a hillside vineyard on slate soils in Bierzo. Aromas of soft herbs, cherry, mint, violet, pea shoots and elderberry unfold with a subtle florality. The talc-like texture and compact frame lead to juiciness and tension. This is energetic, fresh and full of nuance. A lively, engaging Bierzo red. Drink 2025-2043.
97 points
Joaquín Hidalgo - Vinous

Cherries, geraniums and wild berries on the nose. The palate is fleshy without excess, with linear acidity and an awesome sense of balance on the delicate end of the spectrum. This comes from a 100-year-old vineyard planted at 620 meters on calcareous soil. Drink now or hold.
98 points
Jacobo García Andrade - JamesSuckling.com