2023 Cesar Marquez Perez Pico Ferreira Mencia

Cesar Marquez has Bierzo running through his veins, and is the latest generation of the Perez family to own the leading Castro Ventosa winery in north-western Spain. Growing up surrounded by the region's leading exponents, including a lengthy apprenticeship with one of the world's greatest winemakers, his uncle Raul Perez, has shaped much of what Cesar values in wine. While he still manages the family estate, Cezar started his own venture in 2015, and is already one of the most exciting young prospects in Spain.

Having a deep understanding and access to some of the best vineyards Bierzo has to offer, Cezar focuses on preserving purity and freshness, highlighting the promise Mencia has in the right place when made with attention to detail. Cezar is structuring his line-up of wines in Burgundian fashion, making a broader appellation wine, a village wine, along with several single vineyard offerings. Winemaking is similar on all wines, with grapes partially destemmed and fermented in open barriques, before spending 12 months in old barrels without any racking or top ups before bottling the following winter. These are wines that are not just great examples of Bierzo Mencia, but wines that truly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest from any region or country.

Pico Ferreira is located in the village of Corullon, and while only 300m from Sufreiral it’s on the opposite side of the mountain with a north-east exposure. Soils here are very poor, thin and rocky slate where the roots struggle to penetrate. This leads to small clusters and wines that are often more robust than others in the portfolio.

Other Reviews....
The 2023 Pico Ferreira comes from a lieu-dit in the village of Corullón, a northwest-facing, shady slope planted with centenary vines on slate soils. It fermented with 30% full clusters and indigenous yeasts in 1,000-liter vats with 21 days of maceration and matured in a 1,200-liter oak vat and 600-liter barrels for one year. This is a little more discrete and remained closed after being in the glass for a while, whereas the other wines opened up. It comes in at 12.98% alcohol, with a pH of 3.57 and 5.36 grams of acidity, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins. 1,980 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2025. Drink 2026-2036.
97 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2023 Pico Ferreira is Mencía grown on slate with some clay, a rarer soil type in Bierzo. This aged in 500- to 600-liter barrels. Aromas include soft herbs, a hint of balsam, pomegranate and cherry. The slate-driven palate is compact and tense, yet juicy, with fine-grained tannins and long flavor. Drink 2025-2043.
96 points
Joaquín Hidalgo - Vinous

This is subtle and floral, with aromas of nervy herbs and red cherries. It’s juicy, delicious and precise, with fine-grained tannins and subtle fruit in the firm and flavorful finish. This comes from a vineyard planted on calcareous soil at high altitude. Drink now or hold.
97 points
Jacobo García Andrade - JamesSuckling.com