2022 Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling
Located right beside the winery, Mort’s Block vineyard provides the core for this wine, with fruit from Kilikanoon’s Morrison vineyard on the opposite hillside providing additional depth and complexity. Backing up the strength of the 2022 vintage, winemaker, Peter Warr states ‘this is one of the finest Mort’s blocks produced.’
Brilliant water like colour with a faint tinge of green around the outskirts. Showing terrific intensity are lime and citrus aromas which are followed by some orange rind, chalky talc, light wet steel and minerally notes. Powerful lime and citrus fruits engulf the mouth underpinned by snappy acidity. Orange rind, subtle green apple, wet steel and chalky mineral characters ensue. Finishes dry and crisp with a long mouth watering aftertaste.
Drink over the next 6-8 years.
Old, low-yielding vines. Light, bright green-quartz. The delicately perfumed bouquet takes some coaxing to reveal itself, the palate following without the need of persuasion. It is bright and lively, bringing citrus, Granny Smith apple, and slinky acidity from the first sip through to the lingering finish. Drink to 2040.
James Halliday's Top 100 Wines of 2022
Riesling comes in many different forms – skin contact, fermentation in oak, wild ferment, etc, – but there is a classic style of Riesling that never goes out of date. Mort’s Block epitomises that classic approach in its concentration of fruit and singular purity of expression. Floral and spring-like in scent: citrus blossom, lime, spicy musk, orange peel. Youthful, taut in structure with emerging white peach, ginger spice and citrus flavours. Time is on its side. Mort’s Block, which is the basis for this label, boasts old vines planted in 1970 and grown on red loamy soils over limestone. That limestone plays a role. There’s an almost effortless balance here with mineral-laced fineness. Watervale Riesling in a great year deserves more time in the cellar, but few will be able to resist opening a bottle right now. Drink 2022-2035.
Jeni Port – winepilot.com