2022 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett (Kugel Peter)
The Weber family of Hofgut Falkenstein have been making ultra-traditional Rieslings in the Saar district of the Mosel region since the mid-eighties; there they farm about 9 hectares in and around the villages of Niedermennig and Krettnach. Erich, the family winzer (winegrower in german) works alongside his middle son Johannes, who has joined him full-time in the vineyards and cellar in recent years. Ever since there has been more of a focus on Rieslings with residual sugar. The emphasis on their work is in the vineyard, where no pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers are employed and cover crops are grown to encourage biodiversity and, when necessary, competition with the vines for water. With their straightforward approach to winemaking the Webers craft light, distinctive and racy Rieslings displaying well-integrated acidity from their low yielding old vines, and are bottled traditionally by the cask.
The 2022er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Kugel Peter (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on the label after the AP number) was harvested on 50-year-old from partially un-grafted vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard, which was classified in the highest category on the old taxation maps, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It shows a beautifully fresh and finely aromatic nose of spices, gooseberry, cassis, rote redcurrant, herbal tea, and lime. The wine is beautifully playful and still compact on the palate, as the juicy elements of yellow fruits are wrapped into bright and lively juicy acidity. The finish is vibrating and superbly energetic. What a great Kabinett! Drink 2029-2042.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines