2022 Duke's Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling
With new owners comes a label refresh for the Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling. Brilliant water like colour with distinct highlights of green around the edges. Jumping out of the glass are intense lime and Granny Smith apple scents which are trailed by some lemon, wet steel, orange rind and distinct flinty mineral notes. Racy, powerful and concentrated but not as textural as top vintages, mouth watering lime, green apple and lemon flavours are pierced by a steely spine of mineral infused acidity. Some orange rind and cucumber characters are also apparent on the dry flinty finish. Tense and laser like in its focus with an exceptionally long but tightly coiled aftertaste.
Drink over the next 8-10 years.
This 2022 Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling is the first under new ownership, and it leads with a distinctly different nose than usual. It's challenging to pin down, but here goes: in place of the pristine white flowers and talc that is expected, there is swirling ash/embers, straw/hay, bison grass and graphite/bitumen and a pronounced petrichor/ozone character leads the charge. Behind it are pencil shavings, Dispirin (aspirin), the crackle of summer grass and oxalis. It's salty and mineral, gray and rocky, austere and sleek. Whether it's the season or not, this is a change in style for the Magpie Hill Reserve. Very different indeed. Drink 2022-2037.
Erin Larkin – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate
Smoky struck-flint reduction at first sniff then a suite of fruit aromas gradually unfolds, floral, mineral, green apple and lemon to the fore. The wine is tightly wound and very restrained, delicate and tense, needing time to emerge fully. Lively acidity is neatly integrated into the wine. A long-term wine for sure, a style that needs time and will richly reward even a few years cellaring.
Huon Hooke - The Real Review