2022 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Clos du Roy

Sylvain Pataille has been instrumental in raising the profile of Marsannay since founding his domaine in 1999. Farming around 17 hectares biodynamically, he works with a remarkable diversity of sites, from old-vine Pinot Noir to rare Aligoté Doré and Pinot Beurot, and is known for sensitive, terroir-driven élevage with a high proportion of whole bunches. His work has been central to the ongoing push for premier cru recognition in Marsannay, and his wines are frequently cited as reference points for the appellation. They combine clarity and lift with impressive depth, proving that Marsannay belongs firmly among the most serious terroirs of the Côte de Nuits.

Alongside Longeroies and Champ Perdix, the Clos du Roy is one of Marsannay’s largest and most revered vineyards. Some consider it the appellation’s finest terroir, which makes sense when you consider the name: Roy is the ancient French spelling of roi, meaning king. It’s a steep, east-facing slope above the village of Chenôve, on the same line as the Gevrey Premiers Crus to the south. It has lightish red soil, including some sand, over a bed of Comblanchien limestone. When Marsannay finally gets its first Premier Cru (expected 2024), Clos du Roy will likely be at the front of the queue.

Pataille farms a serious 2.25 hectares in the clos, from vines planted in 1952, 1965, 1978 and 2001. As for the winemaking, ‘the king’s vineyard’ gets the royal treatment in the cellar, with 18 months in barrel and six months in tank before being bottled unfiltered. It ferments almost entirely as whole bunches.

Other Reviews....
The Marsannay Clos du Roy from Pataille is consistently among the top wines of the northern Côte de Nuits. The 2022 features soulful, super-ripe cassis and bramble fruit aromas with a savoury, smoky edge. The texture is dense and concentrated, with abundant tannin and enough freshness to drive this to an impressively long finish. The grapes are from Pataille's parcel of more than two hectares of mature vines planted in this south-east facing site's limestone pebbles and clay soil. It is slightly closed at present, but it should open in three to five years and drink well for at least another 20 years after that. Drink 2030-2070.
95 points
Charles Curtis MW - Decanter

Once again there is a highly attractive floral quality to the softly spicy if distinctly earthy nose that features mostly notes of dark currant and exotic tea. There is good underlying tension to the well-detailed medium weight flavors that are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the chiseled and sneaky long finish that is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around in the mouth. This decidedly firm effort is an excellent example of the vineyard though one that will need all of a decade to arrive at its apogee. Drink through 2032+.
91-93 points
Allen Meadows - Burghound

The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with black cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, with a very elegant, poised finish. About as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage. Drink 2025-2038.
92-94 points
Neal Martin - Vinous

A hedonistic deep purple colour. The nose is quite backward but obviously all the fruit is there. A very dense red berry fruit, minerals behind. Still unknit but on the road to becoming spectacular. Drink from 2028-2034.
90-92 points
Jasper Morris MW - Inside Burgundy