2021 Torbreck The Laird Shiraz

In Scottish terminology, ‘The Laird’ refers to the Lord of the Manor. This single vineyard Shiraz comes from an old vineyard in Marananga planted in 1958, a plot which remains the focus of envy amongst many of the region's winemakers. Previously owned and operated by the legendary Malcolm Seppelt, the vineyard was purchased by Torbreck in 2014 and is perfectly sited with the dry grown, original Barossa clone vines facing south east. The berries are typically small and concentrated and usually harvested in two separate passes.

The French oak selected for the maturation of this wine is considered to be some of the finest in the world. Referred to as Dominique Laurent's 'Magic Casks', the wood is selected from the incredibly tiny and highly prized Troncais forest. The staves are hand split in the French tradition and twice as thick as machine split staves. As a result of the extra thickness the barrels are able to sustain an extended maturation process due to the tighter porosity that comes with the extra wood. Maturation took place in the new hand crafted French oak barriques for a period of 36 months. The barrels were stored in their own temperature controlled, ancient stone shed. In short, no expense has been spared.

An immense palate staining Shiraz that combines intoxicating aromatics with out of this world levels of richness and explosive power.

Spectacular density of colour featuring an impenetrable inky black heart along with an equally deep black dark red hue. Soaring out of the glass with tremendous potency are black cherry, liquorice, dark plum and dark chocolate aromas. Toasty vanillin oak, earthy mocha, whiffs of boot polish and spice ensue. Unbelievably rich, dense and thick, the palate rocks V8 Bi Turbo like torque, decadently coated with a liqueur like concentrate of blackberry, dark to black plum, liquorice and earthy mocha flavours. Showing less toast than recent vintages, it still possesses a strong vanillin oak component yet remains perfectly balanced. Fennel, dark chocolate and spice elements lend further complexity. It’s statuesque tannin structure largely absorbed by the sheer weight and density of fruit. Incredibly expansive, deep and voluminous it concludes with mind blowing length.
Drink over the next 10-12 years.
Alc. 15.5%

Other Reviews...
The 2021 The Laird is from the Laird vineyard, planted in 1958. This is dark, dense and brooding in its styling, showcasing a depth that the Forebear expresses differently. The latter vineyard (the Hillside vineyard) is almost a hundred years older than the Laird, and I find this to be a curious and interesting fact that bears little on the quality of the wine but heavily impacts/defines the character. The first time the fruit was sourced was in 2004, but it was 2005 that the first Laird was produced; the vineyard was finally purchased in full by Torbreck in 2014. The vineyard is split in its soil types, with black and red clay east to west, and the two sections are picked at different times, as the fruit ripens differently. So, to the wine. Aromatically the wine leads with cocoa and cigar, armchair leather and old books. The palate follows this same smoking-room character and veritably stains the palate in flavor and length. This is a wine of enormous impact, one that lingers and stays in the mouth for ages after the wine has gone. The wine is moody and late-night in its vibe. 15.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork. Drink 2026-2056.
98 points
Erin Larkin – Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate