2021 Terroir al Limit Priorat Terra de Cuques Blanc
Terroir al Limit is Dominik Huber's hommage to the wines of Priorat before Wine Critics from the 90's were chasing high-octane wines. His restrained approach to winemaking has resulted in wines that speak more of finesse, purity, and freshness, showing that Priorat wines do not have to be heavy, thick, and oaky. The use of high-altitude, old-vine plots allows him to harvest ripe fruit with maximum freshness, coupled with the use of whole-bunch fermentation, Huber’s wines have an almost Burgundian-like shape and structure, generating vibrancy and succulence.
Huber has also shown that the whites of the region can be every bit as great as the reds. The 2021 Terra de Cuques is a blend of 90% Pedro Ximénez and 10% Moscatel de Alejandría (Muscat) from vineyards at 400 to 600m above sea level. The grapes are very slowly pressed to achieve some minor maceration and extraction, and are wild fermented, and matured on lees in concrete tanks.
Subtle green spice and cement to the squeezed lemon and grapefruit, with a hint of nori-like umami. Dry, creamy and sleek, with medium to full body and lovely texture to the neutral fruit, though not lacking in substance. Very contained. Drink now or hold.
The very recently bottled 2021 Terra de Cuques Blanc was produced with 90% Pedro Ximénez and 10% Muscat with a moderate 13% alcohol, the minimum required by the appellation. It's serious, with good freshness, a little reductive at first but then more expressive with abundant notes of pollen and a honeyed touch, with a little skin contact that gives it character and some notes of quince and fine tannins. There's finesse and elegance and it's very clean. They have food in mind when they do the wines, so there is a constant search for freshness. There is a good demand for whites, and they sell everything, but the planting of white vineyards is limited. Drink 2023 - 2030.
Luis Gutiérrez - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate