2021 Setiono Flaxman Syrah
Included 75% whole bunch fruit with maturation taking place in 25% new French oak hogsheads for approximately 12 months. Dense inky black heart with a deep dark red black hue. Alluring aromas of black cherry, aniseed and fennel soar out of the glass trailed by some smoked meat, dried herb and peppered earth notes. Rich, deeply concentrated black cherry, aniseed and dark plum flavours are super plush in their feel with some ripe chewy tannins lending some grip to firm up the finish. Smoky vanillin cedar, fennel, scorched earth and peppered dried meat elements lurk underneath. Excellent power with a sturdy meaty feel to the long muscular conclusion.
Cellar 6-8 years.
Samantha Chandra is the winemaker behind this brand new Barossa label. She’s taken to Christa Deans (Rolf Binder/Veritas wines) as a mentor and managed to source fruit from what some is the highest shiraz vineyard in SA, Naimanya vineyard in Flaxman Valley at 525 metres or so above sea level. Quite a bit of whole bunch rolled into the winemaking process too. I met Sam with Callum Powell when he was wandering through Sydney on a quasi-recent trip.
Gamey, meaty and rich but with a lift of floral things and white pepper, sour cherry, just ripe plum and new leather. The palate is squishy but bright, lots of flavour, depth, concentration, fine, chewy tannins, more game meatiness and a white pepper finish. It’s a very hearty red, so much depth and character on hand, all the elements not quite woven in but I like the gist and it feels honest to the place. Worth the visit. Drink 2022-2035.
Mike Bennie – The Wine Front