2021 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Clos Windsbuhl
Modern day Domaine Zind Humbrecht started with the 1959 amalgamation of the Humbrecht family vineyards in Gueberschwihr and the Zind family vineyards in Wintzenheim. However current custodian Olivier Humbrecht MW is the latest generation of Humbrecht winemakers dating back to 1620. Olivier is a legend among modern French winemakers, becoming France’s first Master of Wine at the age of 29, before returning to the family Domaine and beginning a journey to revitalise the vineyards after years of chemical treatment common at the time. Today the Domaine comprises 41.1 hectares of vines spread throughout a range of Grand Cru and single-vineyard sites, all cultivated organically and according to biodynamic principles. These are the pinnacle of aromatic whites from Alsace.
The 2021 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl is grown on Triassic limestone, facing east to southeast, on the upper part of the clos with less topsoil. The age of the old vines is unknown, estimated to be 65 years old. The younger vines were planted in the early 1980s. Windsbuhl means windy hill and used to be referred to as petit Sibérie - so it comes into its own now. Reduction takes over on the nose, but underneath, there are gentle glimpses of lemon. The palate has a real phenolic edge, a lovely, pithy bitterness that lends contour to the lemony flow. Lovely flashes of passion fruit pop up, upping the aromatic game, lending allure to flavor and texture, underlined by a bone-dry finish. (Bone-dry). Drink 2027-2060.
Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous
A noble wine that’s extremely subtle and delicate, the power seriously underplayed, almost hiding in the many corners of this shy beauty. Super-elegant interplay of ripe acidity, medium body and silkiness. Great aging potential. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com