2021 Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Spatlese
Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.
Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.
The 2021 Marienburg Spätlese is pure, bright and flinty on the reductive but fruit-intense and concentrated nose. Round, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a refined and saline, very delicate and stimulating Spätlese with a pure and salivating finish. It's young but digestible due to a rather moderate dose of sulfur. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. Drink 2026 - 2050.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Aug 2022)