2020 Stefano Lubiana Sasso Pinot Noir
Fanciest fruit from best blocks, the best of show pedigree kind. It’s all BD down there at SLW in Taswegia, as we know. The quality seeming to rise and rise in recent years. Been a while between visits.
Any way you come at this you see quality. Tannins are light but shapes things well, oak is spicy and seasons gently, fruit is powerful but refined, cruise control and then some. Fragant as well, pickled and fresh cherries, woody, smoky spice and new leather, some black olive in the mix, turned, fresh earth. An earthiness to taste too but delivered in the veins of a sinewy muscle of dark berry/cherry fruitiness and lifted on brightness and coolness. Taut, long, luxurious. Beautiful pinot. Drink 2022 - 2035.
Mike Bennie - The Wine Front (April 2022)