2020 Lignier-Michelot Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Cheseaux Premier Cru
The Lignier family have deep roots in the village of Morey Saint Denis and own 10.5 hectares of some of the very best vineyard sites in this village,along with plots in the two neighbouring villages of Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin. In the last 10 years Virgile Lignier has modified his wine-making using whole-bunch vinification ranging from 30-100% depending on the vintage and the vineyard, and he has also reduced the percentage of new oak for maturation with most wines seeing around 30% making its effect seamless in the final wines. They are wines which are often very seductive at a young age which also clearly have the potential for ageing superbly. This very young domaine is now regarded among the very best in the Cotes de Nuits.
Aux Cheseaux joins directly on to Grand cru Charmes Chambertin with Virgiles holding in the higher part of this tiny vineyard.
An earthier and slightly riper blend of cassis, black raspberry, violet and discreet sauvage-suffused aromas. The relatively refined but markedly punchy medium-bodied flavors possess very good mid-palate density while displaying fine length on the balanced if youthfully austere finish that is supported by slightly firmer tannins and bright acidity. Drink from 2030+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chezeaux 1er Cru carries 100% whole bunch although the stems are better integrated than the preceeding Fixin at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, fine acidity, slightly chalky in texture with an understated, quite elegant fresh finish. Drink this over the next 10 to 12 years. Drink 2025-2035.
Neal Martin - Vinous
Two barrels, so 100% whole bunch. Picked on the same day as Aux Charmes and pretty much adjacent, but in a different style, more limestone here. More tension, energy, possibly a blacker fruit on the nose. Saline notes emerge behind the plums and raspberry. I don’t see the whole bunches as much as in the Fixin Arvelets. Crunchy finish.
Jasper Morris MW - Inside Burgundy