2020 Joshua Cooper Doug's Vineyard Pinot Noir
Described by wine commentator Mike Bennie as "one of Australia’s brightest young winemakers”, Joshua Cooper is steadily forging a reputation for thoughtful, elegant, and confident wines from grapes grown in Macedon and surrounds. Doug’s Vineyard is situated on the outskirts of the township of Romsey, in the Macedon Ranges. Owned by the Newnham family it was planted 20 years ago to predominantly MV6 and smaller amounts of 114 and 115 clone pinot noir. The wine sees one year in oak on lees, no stirring, and no racking, then transferred to stainless steel with all the fine lees for a further 4 months of elevage. Before racking and bottling, unfined and unfiltered. The only addition to the wine is a small dose of sulphur the week before bottling.
A tough year for Macedon in 2020 but a silver lining for Joshua Cooper and family was getting their own piece of dirt to which they will close-plant vines. The site is half way between Daylesford and Kyneton some 600 metres above sea level and looking over Virgin Hills estate, a winery that I know forms part of Josh’s inspiration for wines and winemaking. Anyway, this is pinot from Doug’s place.
A curious wine in that it’s 12% alcohol and feels more like 14% or there abouts, Quite thick set, broad shouldered, dense and dark. The perfume shows ripe plum, pickled cherries, old spice cupboard, smoked paprika aromas and some mulchy green herb in the mix. Flavours are richer and dark fruited, shows with malt-extract notes and thick tannin layers on palate and tongue. Acidity is cool in this, the wine deeply savoury and brooding in fruit character. That dark fruit rolls long and the finish is complete with smoked paprika and a light mocha note that turns a little sooty. Most of the elements mesh here, the wine a feast for the senses, with seasonal character on show. Drink 2021 - 2028.
Mike Bennie - The Wine Front (August 2021)
Very fresh and also rich , this pinot offers blueberries and dark cherries, as well as complex violet-like florals and spicy notes. The palate offers crunchy and lightly granular tannin with red-cherry and tangy plum flavors. Acidity is a highlight. Best from 2024.
Nick Stock - JamesSuckling.com (August 2021)