- Nick's Import
2020 Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru
Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine is one of the true quiet achievers in Burgundy, where they produce outstanding wines from their home in the picturesque hamlet of Pernand-Vergelesses, just north of Beaune. It's perhaps this setting, away from the feverish scouring of wines further north in the Cote de Nuits, that has allowed the domaine to fly under the radar. Certainly it has meant these wines can be found for a fraction of what we're now accustomed to seeing from Burgundy.
The domaine is under the guidance of fifth generation winemaker and owner Christine Gruere-Dubreuil, who has been joined recently by her daughter Clémentine. While they farm vineyards as far south as Volnay and Pommard, much of their production is centred around Pernand, including excellent sites on the Corton grand cru hillside, along with the leading premier cru of Savigny-les-Beaune; Les Vergelesses. All reds are 100% destemmed before spending 12-15 months in barrel, with 35% new wood used on the grand cru wines to around 15% maximum on the remainder of their range.
Among the various vineyards owned by Dubreuil-Fontaine, it's the parcels in the famed Corton grand cru that are cherished most. In addition to their 0.7ha of Chardonnay planted in En Charlemagne, their Pinot Noir is planted in the prime lieu-dits of Clos du Roi at the top of the Corton hill, to its south-east in les Bressandes, and to the south in les Perrières. Clos du Roi is perhaps the most complete of the trio, with glorious weight of fruit married to significant structure. Bressandes meanwhile is for many their favourite, a giving and generous expression yet it retains sufficient character to differentiate itself in the range. Lastly les Perrières has a more free-draining, stony soil tending to a finer expression of Corton, though as with all of these wines it can be very long lived.
A more subtle application of wood can be found on the spicier and slightly more elegant nose of both red and dark currant, violet and more discreet earth nuances. The supple and seductively textured flavors possess equally good size and weight though with the intrinsic refinement of a classic Bressandes, all wrapped in a dusty, built-to-age and powerful finish. Lovely stuff and note that while clearly firm, it's not so structured that it couldn't be approached after 5ish years of cellaring. Drink through 2032+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2020 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has quite a stony, mineral-driven bouquet that is requires more coaxing than the Corton-Perrières. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a harmonious finish that fans out beautifully. This is quite a sensual wine but I suspect it may well close up and warrant long-term cellaring. Drink 2026-2046.
Neal Martin - Vinous
This has been racked. Noticeably deeper and more youthful in colour than the Corton Perrières, a powerful purple. The fruit is full of energy, high octane perhaps but not burning. Indeed, this is very good on the palate, with the rich deep raspberry fruit covering the structure and extending well at the finish.
Jasper Morris MW - Inside Burgundy