2020 Domaine Yvon Clerget Volnay Les Caillerets Premier Cru
Currently there is a significant generational shift happening in Burgundy, and these new names are seemingly better trained and better equipped to succeed than ever before. One of the most exciting of these new talents is Thibaud Clerget now heading up his family's Domaine Clerget. Based in Volnay, Thibaud represents the 28th generation of his family's winemaking history in Burgundy, and in a few brief vintages has created significant buzz. In true Burgundy tradition, Thibaud is equally as happy on the tractor in the vineyard as he is in the cellar, confident in taking on all aspects of the process. Since 2019 vintage the family holdings in Volnay and Meursault have been bolstered with further contract arrangements adding prime parcels such as Meursault Perrieres and Corton Grand Cru.
This is at once spicier and more elegant with its cool array of ripe red and dark cherry, kirsch and discreet floral nuances. The relatively rich yet delicate and wonderfully refined middle weight flavors possess a highly beguiling texture on the mineral-driven, youthfully austere and strikingly persistent finish. This is very classy and a wine that should age effortlessly. One to look for. Drink to 2032+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2020 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed with one-third new oak, cropped at just 12hl/ha due to the old age of vines (90-years) that produces small berries. The bouquet has a stupendous nose, beautifully defined with a mixture of red and black fruit, the most floral of Clerget’s Volnays. The palate is medium-bodied with a plump opening, quite saturated tannins, powerful with just a slight greenness on the finish. I suspect that will be subsumed with time. Tricky to see how this Volnay will evolve, but I will give it the benefit of the doubt. Drink 2025-2045.
Neal Martin - Vinous
A wine of impressive concentration, with a lush black plum fruit, abundant mineral and rose petal notes. Everything is here, making for a voluptuous, complete wine that lacks neither aromatic depth nor structure on the palate. This wine is produced from 0.42ha of 90-year-old vines that yield no more than 10-15 hl/ha. The fruit is completely destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new). Drink 2022 - 2035.
Charles Curtis MW - Decanter
All destemmed, one new barrel in three. Tiny grapes at 15 hl/ha from 90 year old vines. Rich purple colour, a dense bouquet of dark fruit with a slight chocolate note. Heady but scintillating, the qualities really show towards the back of the palate where this wine finishes with sublime elegance. For the moment the Caillerets is just a tiny bit rumbustious at the front but sublime behind.
Jasper Morris MW - Inside Burgundy