2020 Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Volnay Vieilles Vignes
Thomas Bouley is very much the insiders secret, more famous with his fellow vignerons than with collectors chasing the next 'superstar' seen on social media. That Thomas resists putting his name on the front label of his wines (preferring to keep his father's) is typical of his humble and low key approach. Based in Volnay may also add to his relative anonymity, however we suspect this is changing rapidly as word gets out of just how spectacular his wines are, and of the continual improvement seen since he began working with his father in the early 2000's.
Meticulous attention to detail in both the vineyard and winery are notable here, and key to why Thomas is so highly regarded by his peers. Yields are moderate, and in the cellar whole cluster ferments are used more with his clay rich sites (Pommard Fremiers, Volnay Clos des Chenes), while those with thin white soils (Pommard Rugiens-Hauts, Volnay Caillerets) are largely destemmed. New oak use is minimal, and each wine spend two winters on fine lees before bottling.
Powerful and muscular, the 2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes is richer than the ethereal Clos de la Cave, offering up aromas of sweet cherries, plum compote, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's broad shouldered and fleshy, with lively acids and a long, expansive finish. Drink 2030 - 2050.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Feb 01, 2023)