2020 Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Volnay Clos des Chenes Premier Cru

Thomas Bouley is very much the insiders secret, more famous with his fellow vignerons than with collectors chasing the next 'superstar' seen on social media. That Thomas resists putting his name on the front label of his wines (preferring to keep his father's) is typical of his humble and low key approach. Based in Volnay may also add to his relative anonymity, however we suspect this is changing rapidly as word gets out of just how spectacular his wines are, and of the continual improvement seen since he began working with his father in the early 2000's.

Meticulous attention to detail in both the vineyard and winery are notable here, and key to why Thomas is so highly regarded by his peers. Yields are moderate, and in the cellar whole cluster ferments are used more with his clay rich sites (Pommard Fremiers, Volnay Clos des Chenes), while those with thin white soils (Pommard Rugiens-Hauts, Volnay Caillerets) are largely destemmed. New oak use is minimal, and each wine spend two winters on fine lees before bottling.

Other Reviews....
Aromas of wild berries, dark chocolate, sweet spices, licorice and rose petals preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that's rich, powerful and gourmand, with a ripe core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent balancing acids. It's a compelling success, but it will reward some bottle age. Drink 2030 - 2055.
94+ points
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Feb 01, 2023)