- Nick's Import
2020 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard
Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre are the global benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc, and there is no bigger name or more highly regarded producer in the area than Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Now under the guidance of Didier's talented son Louis-Benjamin, the wines still follow his ethos that authentic Pouilly Fumé requires healthy fruit from low yielding, old vines to produce the purest, and most intense and vibrantly fresh wine. That's not to say these wines are typical of the appellation. Given the severely low yields and approach to élevage, Dagueneau wines emphasise a creamy texture rather than bracing acidity, and combine mineral flavours with exotic fruits to supreme effect.
Buisson Renard is a cool, mid-slope terroir on the southwest side of the Saint-Andelain slope, and the soils are a mixture of clay and flint. This was barrel fermented and aged in Dagueneau’s bespoke, cigar-shaped barrels (450 and 600 litres) which are designed to increase lees contact.
Perhaps the most Sauvignon-esque of all the vintage, the 2020 Buisson Renard is richly aromatic with distinctive lime, elderflower, ginger and honeysuckle aromas. It is currently most appealing for its tension as if a strong muscle is being stretched taut. It has masses of concentration and curves in the right places with an attractive sense of bitterness on the long finish. This is even better than when I tasted it from tank last year. Drink 2024-2033.
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous