2020 Comando G El Tamboril Garnacha
It’s time to leave your preconceptions at the door, as Comando G produce Garnacha (Grenache) unlike anyone else in Spain. Comando G’s Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia craft Garnacha up in the near inaccessible hills of the Sierra de Gredos mountains which are miles away (figuratively and literally) from the dark, powerful, brooding wines of Priorat that hit the scene 20 years or so ago. These are a different breed of Garnacha, light, ethereal, built on tension and finesse. There’s no lack of concentration however, and they have much more in common with high-end Burgundy than what you would normally associate with Spain. Word is well and truly out on these special wines, with demand far outstripping supply and prices skyrocketing on the secondary market.
The backward and serious character of the red 2020 El Tamboril Tinto shows the backward character of this place, a cool site with a longer cycle and later harvest, so it always attains more color. The wine has more stones, more bone than meat and chalky, talcum powder tannins from white soils that create wines with electricity and energy. This always has more Italian in character, with more Barolo tannins than Burgundy. It should develop nicely in bottle. 1,553 bottles and 50 magnums produced. It was bottled in May 2022. Drink 2023 - 2032.
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Jun 01, 2023)
This year, Tamboril has the deepest color among Comando G’s parcel wines, even if it is still just medium ruby with a subtle orangey rim. But it certainly is glossier. Of course, there is a lot going on here, with tangy red berries and a splash of black fruit, too. Mineral and spicy with a hint of menthol. This has a bold structure with very firm, minerally textured tannins on the palate followed by a long, tight finish. Drink or hold.