2020 Clemens Busch Marienburg Vom Blauen Schiefer Riesling
Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.
Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.
Here's the opportunity to get a GG-type dry riesling for a friendly price. Excellent ripeness and finesse, the stone-fruit and grapefruit character beautifully intertwined with the minerally acidity. Long, herbal and wet-stone finish that tells the full Mosel riesling story. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com
The 2020er Riesling vom blauen Schiefer, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, comes from early pickings in the blue-slate sector (Fahrlay) of the Pündericher Marienburg. It offers a beautiful nose made of white peach, pear, a hint of earthy spices, wet stone, floral elements, and smoke. The wine proves juicy rather than bone-dry on the palate, where riper flavors play with one’s senses. The finish is still slightly rough and backward. This wine now only needs a few years of patience to fully shine. It could then easily exceed our early high expectations especially as it reveals its superbly floral and fresh array of flavors. Drink 2024-2032.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines