2020 Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Spatlese Goldkapsel
Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.
Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.
Tons of floral honey, ripe grapefruit and candied ginger make this concentrated and succulent riesling Spätlese really stand out of the crowd in this field. So much candied citrus on the rich yet cool and refined palate. The finish is both lush and very mineral. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com
The 2020er Marienburg Riesling Spätlese, as it is referred to on the main part of the consumer label and with a golden capsule, was made from fruit picked at 96° Oechsle from a selection of partially (10%) botrytized fruit and was fermented down to fully sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a hugely backward and almost non-saying nose at first and the wine takes a while before revealing some faint scents of pear, melon, lemon zest, smoke, and a hint of whipped cream. However, it proves remarkably alluring on the palate where finely chiseled fruity and mineral flavors are beautifully wrapped into ripe yet zesty acidity. The finish is beautifully playful, deep, multi-layered, and refined. This modern-day equivalent of a clean Auslese GK from the 1990s is a true winner. Drink 2030-2050.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines