2020 Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Spatlese
Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.
Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.
Gigantically fresh, with a whole garden of fresh herbs, plus white peach and a touch of white currant. Great energy whipping it down the road on the sleek and focused palate. There must be quite some natural grape sweetness in here, but the acidity it so vibrant that you barely feel it. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com
It’s not easy to prise apart the complex fragrance of the Marienburg Spätlese, suffice to say that herbal and mineral elements shape the first impression, with fine floral and fruity notes demanding a little more olfactory application. The taste of crunchy apple and zesty citrus fruit gets the juices flowing, sweet lemony acidity prolongs the sensory stimulation. More classic than avant-garde, traditionalists deserve to be pleased too.
Michael Schmidt - JancisRobinson.com