2020 Clemens Busch Marienburg Fahrlay Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.

Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.

Other Reviews....
The 2020 Marienburg GG Fahrlay is pure, bright and fresh on the nose and, like the 2021, absolutely true to its terroir with its rocky blue slate. The ripe fruit of the 2020 vintage is obvious here but far from opulence or pure richness. Terroir and vintage are beautifully united here. Rich and juicy yet refined and very delicate on the palate, this is a beautifully textured and balanced, intense and concentrated Fahrlay with fine, saline acidity, fine tannins and these crunchy structural slate elements. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. Drink 2026 - 2050.
96 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Aug 2022)

Smelling this is like looking into a deep abyss, and someone unfamiliar with intensely mineral dry riesling might feel a bit of vertigo. However, these grapefruit, white-tea and wild-herb aromas really excite us. On the sleek palate this is super-focused with a terrific tannin structure that beautifully matches the crystalline quality on the pristine finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold.
97 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com

The 2020er Marienburg Fahrlay GG, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, was fermented spontaneously in traditional oak casks from fruit harvested in a blue slate part of the Marienburg vineyard. It offers a superb nose made of lemon zest, white flowers, raspberry, fine spices, and herbs. The wine is beautifully precise and playful on the nicely dry palate and leaves a superb feel of fresh fruits and subtly tart minerals in the finish. The aftertaste is all about multi-layered and finely chiseled flavors. What a huge success. We would not be surprised if it eventually exceeds our high expectations at maturity, as it develops its full balance. Drink 2028-2040.
94+ points
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines