2019 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (375ml)
Selbach-Oster has a history in the wine trade dating back 1660, while the current winery was formed in the mid 1800's. Known for producing highly detailed and pure expressions of Riesling, Selbach-Oster have vines planted in some of the greatest sites in the Mosel, including Zeltinger Himmelreich, Schlossberg, and Sonnenuhr; Wehlener Sonnenuhr; and Graacher Himmelreich and Domprobst. Today, Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara, with the increasing help of son Sebastian and daughter Hannah, manage their vineyards and winery with passion and respect for the estate’s long held traditions. Johannes, like his late father Hans, has continued the use of traditional oak fuder in his cellar, bringing in new large casks every few years. Vinification is carried out in a combination of fuder and stainless steel, in a hands-off manner with no fining, and predominantly with wild yeasts. The focus is on meticulous work in the vineyard with the aim to produce and bring home perfect fruit.
Fermented in stainless steel, the 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese is concentrated, deep and spicy on the nose that represents a perfectly selected botrytis. Rich and juicy-piquant on the palate, this is another highly finessed, elegant, rather lean and linear but balanced TBA with lingering salinity and mineral freshness thanks to the crystalline acidity from pure slate. Tasted at the domain in September 2020. Drink 2035 - 2100.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Oct 2020)
Mind-blowing concentration of dried exotic and stone fruit, but also stunning elegance, thanks to the brilliant acidity that also powers the super long finish. As delicious as this nobly sweet riesling masterpiece is, this really needs some years to reach its full, wide-screen glory. Very limited production. Better from 2022.
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com
The 2019er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was made from 100% shrunken raisin fruit harvested at 194° Oechsle and fermented down to fully noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (340 g/l). An initial whiff of volatile acidity quickly gives way to an aromatic, powerful, and concentrated scents of toffee, mango, raisin, mirabelle, grapefruit, passion fruit, apricot, plum, and spices. The wine develops huge concentration and depth on the palate, where a kick of acidity lifts the flavors. Despite the sweetness at play, the wine remains utterly balanced thanks to a playful acidity, its grip, and structure. The finish has an outstanding intensity. We would not be surprised if this stunning TBA will not eventually merit a perfect rating at maturity, once it will have revealed its finesse: It is THAT impressive! Drink 2034-2069.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines