2019 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint Aubin en Remilly Premier Cru
After leaving his family domaine in 2005, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has established himself as one of the rising stars of Burgundy. Pierre-Yves has built a strong reputation for crafting exquisite white Burgundy that display energy and vitality. The white wines are whole bunch pressed, fermented with natural yeasts, aged on lees for up to 18 months in mostly in 350 litre barrels with no lees stirring and no filtration. The corks used come from one tiny supplier and are extra long and extra wide (55mm x 25mm) for the village, 1er cru and Grand cru wines and are untreated with no paraffin and the bottles are then sealed with soft wax to ensure no problems with premature oxidation. The resulting wines are built to age classically up to 10 years or more.
From three parcels, Pierre-Yves Colin's 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly marries aromas of orange oil and fresh pear with hints of struck match, white flowers and warm bread. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's the most voluminous of his Saint-Aubins, with racy acids and chalky extract underpinning its ample core of fruit. Concluding with a saline finish, this, too, is promising.
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
Picked on 9th September, already at 14.4% alcohol. The colour has stayed very fresh, which is interesting. The nose does have some of the spice of ripe fruit, but the fruit is not denatured. The deep yellow fruit is bolstered by its own natural acidity and the vital touch of reduction. Very successful.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy
Three parcels, one 35-year-old close to Les Murgers des Dents de Chien. Others are at the same elevation as Chevalier with 60-year-old vines. Very sunny spot. Same exposition as La Chatenière. In the evening very exposed. Particularly calcareous with white soils. It can suffer in hot and, especially, dry summers. The vines shut down. Tank sample.
Not as expressive as the Champlots. Bit of chalkiness on the end but less expressive fruit at the moment. Low-key nose but long. Fruit and acid not yet integrated.
Jancis Robinson MW