2019 Max Ferdinand Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (375ml)
Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter produces world-class Rieslings from some of the most esteemed vineyards in the Mosel, and all production comes from estate holdings. The terroir of their steep vineyard sites is generally grey slate with different compositions of ferruginous (Brauneberg), mineral quartz (Veldenz) or clay (Graach, Wehlen, Mülheim) soils; those deeply influence character and flavour of the wines. In order to reduce quantity and increase concentration, pruning is severe and in prolific years a green harvest is carried out in August. The vintage is picked much later than that of most growers and is done entirely by hand. Three passes are done to select the best qualities to eliminate all inferior grapes and to keep perfect botrytis bunches or single berries for Auslese qualities and above. The same attention is paid to all vines from the QBAs on up through the Eisweins.
Based on single berries affected by an early botrytis, the raisin selection of the three-starred Auslese is the 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. Intense, very precise and spicy on the nose, the 2019 displays concentrated peach, almond and biscuit as well as lemon chutney, tea and ginger aromas. Silky, refined and highly delicate on the palate, this is a super precise and elegant TBA with great precision, finesse and salinity. The sweetness is certainly palatable but balanced by the clarity, precision, finesse and seamless texture of this crystalline and stimulating TBA that is extremely hard not to score 100 points. Maybe later, after some years of bottle aging? This wine has all the potential to become a legend. Bottled with roughly 400 grams of acidity, 6.5% alcohol and high acidity that was at 16 grams per liter in the must stage. 70 liters produced. Drink 2035 - 2100.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Oct 2020)
This is packed with dried-fruit aromas, ranging from pineapple to dates and figs, but it remains finely nuanced, rather than drifting off into opulence and density. With aeration, some ceps/porcini character appears, too. A super elegant wine, in spite of the enormous concentration and the sweetness that comes with it. The playful, filigree finish makes it really stand out in this category. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com
The 2019er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was made from fully-botrytized fruit picked at 210° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fully noble-sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a hugely exotic nose made of baked pineapple, coconut, mango, starfruit, almond cream, dried fruits, and honeyed elements. The wine is hugely sweet and unctuous on the palate, where a whiff of volatile acidity adds pep to the structure. The finish is long and alluring, but also marked by a touch of volatile acidity at this early stage. This superb TBA may eventually exceed our high ratings, especially as the volatile elements withdraw into the background. What an impressive effort! Drink 2029-2069.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines