2019 Max Ferdinand Richter Graacher Himmelriech Riesling Kabinett
Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter produces world-class Rieslings from some of the most esteemed vineyards in the Mosel, and all production comes from estate holdings. The terroir of their steep vineyard sites is generally grey slate with different compositions of ferruginous (Brauneberg), mineral quartz (Veldenz) or clay (Graach, Wehlen, Mülheim) soils; those deeply influence character and flavour of the wines. In order to reduce quantity and increase concentration, pruning is severe and in prolific years a green harvest is carried out in August. The vintage is picked much later than that of most growers and is done entirely by hand. Three passes are done to select the best qualities to eliminate all inferior grapes and to keep perfect botrytis bunches or single berries for Auslese qualities and above. The same attention is paid to all vines from the QBAs on up through the Eisweins.
The 2019 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett is very clear, precise and intense on the refined but complex, deep and concentrated nose. Sourced from 70- to 80-year-old vines in the original Himmelreich ("Im Himmelreich"), this is a dense, complex and structured Kabinett with mouth-filling fruit and a long, complex, very mineral and expressive finish. This is a great Kabinett—one of the best you can find in the Mosel (or elsewhere)—and this will be even more true in 20, 30 or even 40 years. Terroir matters, and the old vines in a first-class terroir matter even more. This is another must-buy. 9% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in September 2020. Drink 2030 - 2060.
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Oct 2020)
A stunning Kabinett that lies in that delicious no-man’s land between sweet and dry, where this category shines the most. Super clean apple, white-peach and berry aromas, plus a hint of herbs, make this very attractive right now. But it’s got the structure to age, too. Very crisp, long, mineral finish that begs for smoked fish or ham. From 80-year-old vines. Drink or hold.
Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com
The 2019er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 84° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (50 g/l). It offers a gorgeous nose made of elderflower, yellow peach, pear, grapefruit, and floral elements. The wine is gorgeously intense and yet superbly playful on the palate, where succulent fresh fruits mingle with more mineral elements. A touch of creaminess comes through in the finish, which admirably complements the juicy but racy kick of acidity. Some almond paste and apricot come through in the aftertaste add a Spätlese touch to the wine without taking anything away from its juiciness. This fruity-styled wine is a true winner. Drink 2029-2049.
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines