2019 Lignier-Michelot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Bertin
The Lignier family have deep roots in the village of Morey Saint Denis and own 10.5 hectares of some of the very best vineyard sites in this village,along with plots in the two neighbouring villages of Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin. In the last 10 years Virgile Lignier has modified his wine-making using whole-bunch vinification ranging from 30-100% depending on the vintage and the vineyard, and he has also reduced the percentage of new oak for maturation with most wines seeing around 30% making its effect seamless in the final wines. They are wines which are often very seductive at a young age which also clearly have the potential for ageing superbly. This very young domaine is now regarded among the very best in the Cotes de Nuits.
Virgile makes his Gevrey villages cuvee mostly from a parcel of .53 ha of vines planted in 1969 in Les Seuvrees which borders on to Grand cru Charmes Chambertin close to the Morey St Denis border.
Mild reduction reduces the expressiveness and blurs the distinction of what are clearly ripe fruit aromas. The delicious and attractively vibrant flavors are not as dense as those of the old vines Morey though they do offer sneaky good length on the youthfully austere and moderately rustic finale. This is good but not as good as the best of these villages. Drink 2027+.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin "Cuvée Bertin" contains around 80% whole bunches. It has a very intense bouquet with powerful black cherry and cassis fruit. It manages to retain fine delineation but leans more towards the hedonistic side of the pleasure spectrum. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit laced with marmalade and allspice on the entry. Fine grip, quite irony towards the finish with a gamey aftertaste, this will deserve a couple of years in bottle. Drink 2023 - 2033.
Neal Martin - Vinous
From Seuvreys, Creux Billard, Es Murots, vinified with 100% whole bunches. There is a huge density of fruit on the nose after a very dark colour. Sweetly ripe, perhaps a little exaggerated here, very dark fruit, just short of raisiny. Length and abundant flavour. Saved by the whole bunch.
Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy